Heath and Heather

Low-growing heath and heather are the perfect plants for rock gardens and perennial borders. The best news is that growing heath and heather is a snap. Both love sunny spots (a full day of sun is best, but a half day will do) and, with few exceptions, these plants thrive in acidic soil. They thrive especially well in coastal climates, where growing conditions are mild and moist. Heath and heather hail from Europe and South Africa, where they’ve naturalized to create breathtaking sweeps of color during peak bloom. You can choose heath and heather varieties to have flowers year-round, from the depths of winter to the heat of summer. Combined with evergreen shrubs and dwarf conifers, drought-tolerant heaths and heathers create an easy-care garden that's packed with eye-pleasing vistas, season after season. Calluna vulgaris, or "Scotch Heathers," begin blooming in mid-summer, and continue their display of purple, pink and white flowers (and every shade of the three) well into late autumn. The sprightly blooms aren't the only attraction these evergreen shrubs have to offer; many varieties' foliage colors and growth habits are intriguing. Erica carnea and Erica x Darleyensis varieties are known as the "Winter or Spring Heaths." They are more tolerant of somewhat alkaline soils than other varieties and can tolerate being planted in open shade. Buds formed during the summer months open into fabulous shades of pink and white during the coldest months of the year, offering color to snowy and bleak landscapes. Erica cinerea, or "Bell Heather," has needle-like foliage on erect stems. "Bell Heather" bears very bright, showy bell-shaped flowers in shades of magenta, purple and white from late spring on. Erica tetralix, "Cross-leaved Heath," bears flowers on the tips of branches in pendulous terminal clusters for most of the summer. These are very neat and compact plants. Erica vagans, "Cornish Heath," has glossy green foliage with a wide and spreading habit. Masses of bell-shaped flowers are born along the stems starting in July and lasting throughout the summer. Erica x watsonii, "Watson's Heath," is a natural hybrid of E. ciliaris and E. tetralix found in Truro, Cornwall England. It has similar characteristics as E. tetralix but is slightly hardier and flowers heavier and longer. Tips of new growth are brightly colored Choosing a site Soil requirements The success of any garden depends on proper soil preparation. Ideal soil for most heaths and heathers is slightly acidic, has excellent drainage and contains generous amounts of organic matter (such as wet peat moss, well-rotted compost, etc.) worked in to retain moisture. Heaths and heathers do not survive in a soil that is too fertile or wet; under these conditions, the plants will produce lush growth that may not harden to withstand the harsh winter cold. These plants require little maintenance once they are well established. Plant in raised beds if your soil is clay-based or if your site is flat. A sloping site facilitates drainage naturally. Light requirements Heath and heather need sun and open air circulation. A southern or southeastern exposure is best. A full day of sun is ideal; however, some species tolerate a half day of full, bright sun, especially ground cover varieties. Heaths and heathers especially need sun to show off their foliage colors and for heavy flowering. Each plant is labeled with all the information you need for placement in the garden. Location requirements Heath and heather need a site with good air movement or circulation. Heath and heather care tips WateringHeaths and heathers need thorough, deep watering 2 to 3 times per week, or when the soil feels dry to the depth of your first knuckle. They should not be allowed to completely dry out, nor should they have "wet feet." Because overwatering is detrimental to the health of heath and heather, first check the moisture content before each application of water. Also, water in the morning. Plants watered in the evening run a higher risk of fungal infection because foliage and soil remain wet over a longer period of time and damp conditions promote fungal growth. When watering, avoid wetting the foliage. A slow, deep soaking is best because it promotes root growth and supports existing foliage. During times of heavy rainfall, remove mulch temporarily to allow the site to drain and dry sufficiently. Once established, heaths and heathers are quite drought-resistant and will survive quite well during periods of hot, dry weather. However, remember to provide some supplemental water during long periods of dry weather. Fertilization Since heaths and heathers prefer a 'lean' soil, they do not require regular feeding -- as long as the soil is amended with organic matter. However, if you do choose to fertilize, use a good organic granular for ericaceous plants (azaleas, rhododendrons, holly, etc.). Scratch into the soil surface around each plant in early spring. Be careful not to over-fertilize and remember to avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers! Winter protectionYoung plants, or those in very exposed areas, can suffer from a combination of drying winter winds and sub-zero temperatures. To protect against these conditions, mulch around the plants to protect root zones and growth below the ground; or place evergreen boughs over the plants in a tent-like manner to act as a wind and sun break for the foliage above the ground. Pine needles, straw, or other light material can also be used to completely cover the plants after the ground is frozen. Pruning Young plants, during the first 4-5 years in the garden, need an annual pruning to promote dense branching. Pruning stimulates new growth and increases the amount of flowering branches. Prune summer-blooming varieties in early spring before the new growth resumes. Remove any dead wood and prune any branches that suffered winter injury, cutting back to green wood. Formation pruning -- pruning or training young plants into the shapes you want -- should be minimal, as the plants have a pleasing natural shape. With sharp pruning shears, cut back last year's flowering branches to a point below the old flowers. Avoid cutting into the mature wood. Remember that lush, new growth will start at the point where you cut, so don't be afraid to cut back to prevent legginess and to increase the density of the plant. Generally the winter blooming varieties, such as Erica carnea and E. x darleyensis, do not require regular pruning. Prune as necessary to keep in bounds and to remove any winter injury. This light pruning should be done after flowering. Remove spent blossoms as soon as they fade.

A Garden Symphony

If a garden were a symphony, gray and silver foliage plants would be the rests--the spaces of silence that help frame the music. Amid the cacophony of color, these lovely foliage plants are a refreshing change of tempo. The spots of silence they create in the garden help accentuate the brilliant blooms and vibrant hues of their neighbors. Foliage Among the Flowers For centuries, gardeners have relied on gray and silver foliage plants in their flower borders. For example, the famous English gardener, Vita Sackville-West's "White Garden" at Sissinghurst, England is probably one of the best examples of how silver and gray plants can be used effectively. In her border, she used a variety of white-blooming perennials, such as delphinium, roses, verbena, and lupines punctuated with mounds of silver foliage plants such as artemesia, Allium senescens, and Salvia argentea. In his book, Gardening at Sissinghurst, Tony Lord describes this garden as "the most renowned of all of Sissinghurst's component areas, the White Garden is an essay in the use of flowers and foliage among a feast of fragrances. Our attention is focused primarily on these while colour, provided by the subtle interplay of leaves in shades of green, is relegated to a secondary role." The white garden is a favorite among gardeners who, during the workweek, visit their garden only at dusk. The white flowers and silver foliage extend the view, and look simply celestial in the drenching of light from a full moon. Subtle Softness Silver and gray-leafed plants are often furry or woolly and absorb light rather than reflect it as glossy, green leaves do. The visual effect created is a more muted look wherever these plants are placed. The foliage of 'Silver Carpet' lamb's ears (stachys) are a visual as well as tactile treat. No one that encounters their velvety green-gray leaves can help but lean down to rub them between their fingers. Because lamb's ears evoke this intimate response, they are an ideal plant for edgings or borders. Lamb's ears thrive in a sunny spot and do best in well-drained soil. Visual Referees Gray and silver foliage plants provide a visual break between large masses of competing colors. You can also use low-growing silver-leafed plants to edge a bold border, to help keep the color in bounds. For example, plant 'Munsted' or 'Hidcote' lavender beneath roses--the glossy foliage and bright blooms of the classic rose shine next to a spray of dusty lavender leaves. Or, use lavender along a path to light the way--lavender lines the paths of some of the greatest gardens on earth.

Geraniums

Geraniums are indigenous to southern Africa, and it was on Dutch and English ships returning from that region in the 17th century that they first found their way to Europe (and shortly thereafter to America). Now, geraniums are among the most widely grown flowering pot plants in the world. Zonal geraniums vary in height and bear flower clusters up to 4 inches across in red, white, pink, or lavender. Their soft, plush horseshoe-shaped leaves are adorned with rings of white, cream, yellow, red, or brown. Today, geraniums flower better, are more disease-resistant, and are more colorful. They are versatile, too, growing as well in the garden as they do in pots, planters, and window boxes. Known for their heat tolerance, easy care, and disease-resistant qualities, geraniums bring enjoyment and success to gardens and outdoor containers throughout the country. Location requirements Zonal geraniums will grow almost anywhere with minimal care. Common geraniums are excellent bed, border and pot plants because they bloom throughout the garden season. The trailing stems of ivy geraniums make them particularly stunning in window boxes and hanging baskets. Depending upon the variety and care, you can expect zonal geraniums to reach a height of 12-24 inches in the garden. For an eye-catching display, pair geraniums with other annuals. Most geraniums thrive in climates with dry summers, warm days and cool nights. Avoid dark, wet locations. Light requirementsGeraniums are sun lovers; they thrive best with at least six hours of direct sunlight a day. In very hot areas (such as the Midwest and South), it may be best to give the plants a few hours of shade during midday. Soil requirements Whether in containers or the garden, the soil should be well-drained and amended with compost or peat moss. If soil testing, adjust the soil to a pH of 6.0. Watering When first transplanted, water more frequently. Once established, allow the soil to dry out before watering again. Avoid wetting the leaves while watering to prevent any fungal disease from spreading. Fertilizing Geraniums require much fertilization. Use a balanced plant food for flowering plants. Fertilize according to label recommendations from March through October and less frequently during dormancy. Winter care Zonal geraniums are tender. In cold areas, dig up your geraniums and plant them in pots to spend the winter indoors. In midwestern or northern climates, an enclosed patio which stays just above freezing at night is a great over-wintering location .

Geranium Trouble Shooting

Why are my geranium's leaves discolored?

If you notice mottling, streaking, curling, or abnormal color patterns on the leaves of your geraniums, they may have been infected with a viral disease carried by insect pests. Once infected, there is no cure; infected plants should be destroyed to prevent the spread of the virus. A regular program of watering and fertilization will keep plants healthy and best able to ward off viral infection.

What diseases affect geraniums and how can I treat them? The first step in combating a plant disease or pest is to identify it. Here are some descriptions of common geranium diseases and their recommended treatments:

Southern root-knot nematodes: These microscopic, soil-dwelling worms can attack geranium plant roots and cause stunted growth, wilting and yellowing. Infested roots will display knots or swellings. These worms are most troublesome in warm-winter climates and sandy soils. Nematode infestation can be prevented with a regular program of watering and fertiliztion in conjunction with the use of compost to introduce beneficial soil organisms. Once infested, a plant cannot be treated; however, the organisms remaining in the soil can be killed through the introduction of beneficial nematodes or by solarization. To solarize your soil, cover it with clear plastic sheeting for three to four weeks. The build-up of solar heat under the sheeting will kill most pests and weed seeds in the top few inches of soil.

Leaf spot: Leaf spot diseases develop during warm, moist weather and cause leaves to display brown or black spots with yellow edges. Eventually, the leaves may drop and the stems may rot. Cut off and destroy infected plant parts as well as seriously affected plants and any soil their roots touch. Since the diseases overwinter on plant debris, if leaf spot occurs, keep the beds clean and replace the mulch. Because the diseases can spread via water, infected tools, or unwashed hands, avoid splashing water on the foliage and keep your hands and tools clean. Spacing plants widely will promote good air circulation.

Botrytis blight: Also known as gray mold, this fungal disease is spread by wind-brone spores and thrives in cool, moist weather. Stems and flowers will rot and develop gray mold, especially during damp, cloudy weather. To prevent its spread, destroy diseased plant parts. To prevent infection, space plants widely to promote good air circulation and allow the soil to dry out between waterings.

Pelagonium rust: This fungal disease causes small, yellow spots on leaf surfaces or powdery, orange spores on the undersides of leaves. Badly infected leaves and plants should be destroyed. Plants with minor infections can be sprayed with sulfur. Watering early in the day, widely spacing plants, and avoiding overhead watering will help prevent infection. What pests commonly attack geraniums? Our zonal geraniums are tolerant of tough conditions; they give new meaning to the term "flower power," blooming non-stop right up until frost. However, they may suffer from an occasional insect infestation. Some common geranium pests include the following:

Geranium aphids: These tiny, soft-bodied, pear-shaped insects suck plant juices and can spread viral diseases. They can be controlled by knocking them off the plants with a strong stream of water, an application of insecticidal soap (pay special attention to treating the undersides of leaves), spraying with horticultural oil, and releasing beneficial insects, such as parasitic wasps, ladybugs, green lacewings, and aphid midges.

Caterpillars: Several species of caterpillars chew geranium leaves. Caterpillars can be handpicked and destroyed or they can be controlled with an application of Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) which kills caterpillars, but does not harm beneficial insects. Cultivating the soil in winter will kill overwintering pupae. Attracting or releasing beneficial insects such as parasitic wasps and ladybugs will also help to control caterpillars.

Other pests: Common garden pests, such as mealybugs, whiteflies, and spider mites, can easily be controlled by knocking them off the plants using a strong spray of water, watering plants well during dry spells, and attracting or releasing beneficial insects. More severe infestations can be treated by applying insecticidal soap or neem.

What is the best way to overwinter geraniums?

It is almost impossible to overwinter geraniums outdoors, but quite simple to do so indoors. To overwinter entire geraniums or scented geraniums, dig them out of their beds or window boxes and place them in a bright spot inside. Make certain not to overwater your plants during their stay indoors. Some gardeners prefer to grow cuttings of their plants indoors rather than try to overwinter entire plants. To start to root cuttings, remove bottom leaves and place in a glass of plain water on a windowsill. Make sure to protect all overwintering geraniums and new cuttings from freezing temperatures which can occur if your plants are left too close to icy windows.

Why won't my geraniums bloom?

A common reason many flowering plants refuse to bloom is an overdose of nitrogen. Many commercial fertilizers are extremely high in nitrogen. While nitrogen is an essential element for vigorous plant growth, too much nitrogen encourages leafy growth at the expense of blooms. Try supplementing your soil with a balanced organic fertilizer. You might also consider having your soil tested through your local county extention agency. This is a free service which will help provide you with valuable soil improvement suggestions.

What should I do to get rid of the spent blossoms on my geraniums?

The best way to deal with old and withered flowers is to deadhead the plants. Deadheading can be done at any time of year, by cutting or pinching dead buds. You can use any hand tool, pruning shears, or even scissors -- just be sure to avoid new buds and blooms. Deadheading will freshen the appearance of your garden, as well as promote longer-lasting and more abundant blooms.

Successful Seedlings

Why won't my seeds germinate? There are a number of possible factors which may interfere with germination. Use the following checklist to ensure that conditions are right for successful seed starting.

Provide adequate moisture. Seeds need a uniform supply of moisture during germination and seedling development. Excessive amounts may cause damage or damping off.

Regulate temperature. Most plants need temperatures of 65-75°F to sprout. Check requirements for individual plants.

Check planting depth. Small seeds are frequently covered too deep. Very fine seeds need little or no covering. Air is as essential as heat and moisture for germination.

Control harmful insects. Small, tender seedlings are easily destroyed by insects and need to be protected from them. Insecticidal soap is a safe, gentle product for controlling most insect pests.

Guard against damping off. Seedlings grown indoors are subject to damping off. This disease is favored by overwatering, too much heat, not enough space, or too little light and is characterized by the rot and collapse of seedlings at ground level. This soil-borne virus is one of the biggest causes of seedling loss. Using a sterile medium and a good fungicide can prevent seedlings from contracting this disease.

Check your growing conditions. When seeds sprout, move them to a spot where temperatures are moderate. The most vigorous plants are usually grown at about 60-65 ° F. Use heat mats, in early Spring, where necessary. Plants need 10 to 12 hours of good sunlight each day or they will become spindly.

There are a number of factors that affect seed germination. Check the seed packet to determine if all the requirements for temperature and light were met. If the soil was cold and excessively wet, the seeds may have rotted. Dig up one of the seeds and examine it. If it is swollen and soft, the seed has rotted and you'll need to start over. If the soil was too dry, the seeds may not have germinated or may have sprouted and then dried up.

Plants grow tall and leggy when there is insufficient light. If possible move your seedlings to a sunnier location or use grow lights. You can also lower the temperature in the room and reduce the fertilizer to slow the plants' growth.

1. Mold is an indication that the soil or growing medium is too wet and won't harm your plants as long as you can improve the growing conditions right away. Withhold water for a few days and try to increase the air circulation around the containers by adding a small fan or opening a door. You can also scrape some of the mold off or try transplanting into fresh growing medium.

Laying a Flagstone Path

To make a flagstone path as durable and solid beneath your feet as it appears to your eyes, each stone needs firm footing on a well-drained base. Base preparation is even more critical where the soil freezes in winter or where the soil is high in clay. On ground that slopes more than a foot every 10 feet, you may want to consider putting in steps in conjunction with the path. Flagstone paving can be made from any type of horizontally layered rock that can be split into flat slabs, or flags. Arizona sandstone, Pennsylvania bluestone, and slate are among such rocks. Artificial flagstone may be made of concrete, cast into slabs, and dyed the yellow, buff, tawny-red, or gray color of natural stone. In any case, use one-to-two inch thick flagstone for paving. Irregularly shaped flags lend a casual air to a path, while square and rectangular flags create a sense of order and formality.

1. PLANNING THE PATH In planning a path, consider its purpose. Jogs or curves slow footsteps and might be what is needed where you want to encourage a prolonged look at a choice planting. Where footsteps will be hurried, such as from the back door to the vegetable garden, lay out a straight path. Bear in mind that two people strolling together along a major garden path—even two intimate people—need paths four to five feet wide. Eighteen inches is adequate for a small, secondary path for one person. Sprinkle pulverized limestone on the ground to outline the proposed path. For a straight path, guide yourself with strings and stakes. To achieve smooth bends on a curved path, use two garden hoses to mark the edges, and measure across at intervals to keep the path’s width constant.
2. DIGGING OUT THE SOIL Remove existing soil to a depth of at least four inches. If the site is soggy (especially in winter), allow for more drainage by digging out more soil, up to 12 inches if necessary. You won’t need the excavated soil, so shovel it directly into a wheelbarrow. Sprinkle this excess soil between the layers of a compost pile, or stockpile it for use in potting mixes.
3. ESTABLISHING A BASE Shovel porous drainage material such as coarse sand or stone dust into the excavated area, tamping and smoothing it with a board as you proceed. This material will provide a solid base for the path and prevent water from collecting and freezing beneath the flagstones.
4. Fill in with enough drainage material so that the topsides of the stones will be a half-inch above ground level after they’re set in place. Make the center or one side of the path an inch higher than the rest so that surface water will run off.