Protect your Spring Bulbs from Critters!

Between the squirrels, moles, deer and rabbits, having a successful spring bulb display can be challenging and frustrating. But there are several steps you can take to outwit these critters. Some gardeners have had success with repellents such as mothballs or blood meal. However, the best trick we have found is to dip the bulbs in a product called Tree Guard before planting them. Tree Guard's latex based formula resists water and keeps working for an entire season. A unique latex polymer carries the active ingredient, Bitrex, and holds it to the surface of the plant, resisting rain, and wash-off for up to 100 days is what makes TREE GUARD different. Tree Guard has a foul taste and smell that critters know to stay away from! It really does work. Then, cover the bulbs with a few handfuls of a sharp gravel as a good deterrent because it hurts the squirrels' feet. And if you can't get the squirrels to leave your tulips alone, try planting daffodils. they don't like them. Click Here to Order Tree Guard or to see our full line of critter ridders!

Fishing For Moles - Try a Lure

Moles can quickly make a mess of your beautifully manicured lawn and do considerable damage. This is especially true if your lawn is close to a wooded lot, which is a mole's natural habitat. So what can you do to reduce or eliminate this pest? Repellents, traps and baits are your options. Moles are insectivores and earthworms are their favorite food. With this fact in mind we proudly introduce a new solution Mole Repellent Worms. These moleworms mimic a natural food source and are an irresistable taste-treat for moles. Once ingested, the ingredients will disrupt the moles’ normal digestive functions, forcing these destructive nuisances to look elsewhere for food. Liquid Fence Mole Repellent Worms will virtually eliminate the habitation of moles and the unsightly and potentially hazardous conditions they create. The reduction of these destructive animals will help maintain the beauty of landscaping and property value. Yardiac's Mole Repellent Worms are made out of real food and impregnated with lab-tested and proven-effective Liquid Fence Mole Repellent. Mole activity may actually increase for a few weeks as these repellents disrupt their normal patterns and make them more active before leaving the immediate area.

Repelling Blue Heron

A customer recently asked "How do I repel blue heron?"

The Great Blue Heron, one of America's most recognizable variety of waterfowl, can be difficult to deter and may cause significant damage to ponds and landscaping. For optimal control, it is best to combine the use of visual scare products such as the Gator Guard, Prowler Owl, or Terror Eyes along with taste repellents like Goose Chase or Goose Stopper. To maintain a realistic threat to birds, vary your methods and relocate predator replicas frequently. For repelling established flocks, you may also want to consider implementing an audio scare device, such as Goose Buster which randomly projects real distress calls. Another great option is the motion-activated scarecrow, a sprinkler that serves to chase away browsing fish predators.

Organic Gardening Tips & FAQs

Frequently asked questions Can you recommend any "vegetarian" fertilizers that do not contain animal by-products? There are a number of excellent plant-based fertilizers you can try. These include alfalfa pellets (5-1-2); kelp meal (1.5-.5-2.5); and seaweed liquid (.1-.1-1.0). The numbers in parenthesis after each product name indicate its nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium (N-P-K) ratio. How can I improve my clay soil? Soil preparation is very important to a successful garden or landscape. In clay or heavy soil it is advisable to add lots of well-rotted compost to help break up heavy soil particles, introduce microbial activity, add nutrients, and improve drainage. To sustain these positive benefits, you will need to amend your soil regularly throughout the life of the garden. Making your own compost is a good way to keep a supply on hand year-round. You can also improve clay soil by planting cover crops, also known as green manures, in the winter. Alfalfa, buckwheat, and white clover are all cover crops that loosen and add nitrogen to the soil. Rather than working with your existing soil, you might also consider constructing raised beds and filling them with a good-quality, all-purpose potting mix. Whichever method you try, do not work with clay soil when it is wet as this forces the particles closer together. Compaction restricts proper gas exchange, the percolation of moisture and the normal growth of roots. Are there any harmful side effects to using newspaper as a mulch? Any risks from the slight amount of heavy metals present in the ink of daily newspapers are extremely remote. In fact, one environmentalist stated that to have any ill effect at all, you would have to eat twelve complete Sunday newpapers in one sitting! Newspapers are a great way to mulch your garden for weed control. Use a thick layer (no slick inserts) under your mulch and you will eliminate weed problems. Any that do appear are very easy to pull. The paper will break down over time, adding organic material to your soil. The following tips will help you maintain a healthy garden Ensure that plants are healthy before adding them to your garden beds to avoid introducing pests or disease spores. Water wisely Avoid overhead watering to prevent disease spores from washing onto healthy foliage. Using drip irrigation equipment not only prevents the spread of disease, but also helps to conserve water. Allow the soil to dry slightly between waterings to prevent fungal infections. Do not work among plants when they are wet to avoid the spread of water-borne diseases. Remove and destroy severely infected plants or plant parts to avoid spreading diseases to healthy plants. Do not compost infected material. Clean your cutting tools with rubbing alcohol or a weak bleach solution between cuts when pruning diseased foliage. Space plants widely to allow good air circulation. Crowded plants also tend to be weak and spindly, making them targets for pests and diseases. Incorporate compost into the soil to introduce beneficial soil organisms and improve drainage. Fertilize properly Nutrient deficiencies and imbalances make plants more attractive to pests. Overfertilization with nitrogen can cause lush, tender growth that attracts sucking pests such as aphids. Controlling pests and diseases Despite your best efforts to prevent pests and diseases, infections and infestations may sometimes occur. The least harmful way to combat these intruders is through physical controls. Install barriers, such as floating row covers, fences, netting, cutworm collars, and copper barrier tape, to protect your plants from future infestation or infection. Traps and repellents are other low-impact options for foiling insect and animal invaders. If mechanical methods do not solve the problem, the next option is biological control. There are a number of biological control options available to the home gardener. Attract beneficial insects by creating a diverse ecosystem. Plant small-flowered nectar plants such as alyssum and dill to provide an additional food source for beneficials. Attract pest-eating birds, by placing birdhouses, birdbaths and feeders near your garden. Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) is a naturally occurring bacterium that acts as a stomach poison when consumed by certain pests, but it is harmless to beneficial insects. Milky spore is a bacterial disease that specifically targets Japanese beetle larvae. Beneficial nematodes, microscopic soil-dwelling organisms, parasitize many harmful insect larvae. The adage "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" also holds true in the garden. With proper maintenance, you can virtually eliminate pest and disease problems before they start.

Defend Your Lawn the Smart & Safe Way

One major problem for Gardeners, and homeowners alike are pesky intruders. -And who wants to use unsightly barriers, in the lawn that you worked so hard to promote! The market is flooded with devices, sprays, granuals, etc, making it hard to make a decision that you are confident about! One of the best deterrents is the Scarecrow Motion Activated Sprinkler. It has been on the market for years. They are safe, and effective. All you need is a water connection, and a nine volt battery. You can even link two, or more, together, for a wider area of protection. Each Scarecrow covers about 1200 square feet. It only uses about two or three cups of water at a time, and it is effective day, and night. The Scarecrow will be effective on almost anything! -Deer, racoons, heron, dogs and more. As they approach, it repels them with a short but startling burst of water. The sudden noise, movement and spray scares animals away, teaching them to avoid the area in future. Animals tend to be creatures of habit. Once you break their habbit of entering, or grazing, in your lawn, you have made a great stride towards eradicating the problem, alltogether. Another popular use of the Scarecrow is around your pond, to protect your fish! Heron, and cats, are notorious offenders. It dosn't have to be in plain view, if you are concerned about the looks of it. Don't be afraid to get creative. Just stake the scarecrow in the middle of a full shrub, or decorative grass. So long as the sensor, or head, of the unit is exposed, it will be fully effective. Share your story, with us! What is your most effective tip, for defending your yard?

Say Goodbye to Moles and Voles Forever!

Getting rid of moles and voles can be a difficult task! However by following a few simple steps it can be done.If you are looking for a quick removal of the pesky vagrants, use the Yardiac.com Whole control. Whole Control promotes and restores lawn and garden areas by inhibiting the formation of burrows, tunnels, ridges and holes that may be caused by Armadillos, Moles, Voles, Pocket Gophers, Prairie Dogs & Nutrias. Whole Control contains active ingredients that are natural and biodegradable. The product is not destroyed by rain and may remain effective for up to three months when applied as directed. This concentrate is sprayed directly into the areas where armadillos, moles, voles, gophers, and other burrowing animals are digging.It is not a poison and will not hurt any animals. Whole Control will leave a residual in the ground which tastes awful. As invaders dig, they will come in contact with the bad tasting soil and quickly decide the bad taste is too strong and prompt them to find food elsewhere.Apply Whole Control when the signs of digging, tunneling and burrowing by animals first appear. For year round control apply Spring, Summer & Fall. DO NOT APPLY DIRECTLY TO LAKES, PONDS, STREAMS OR OTHER STANDING WATER.For a more permanent control we recommend using the Yardiac.com Mole and Vole Eradication Program. It requires using all three of the following products, in combination.1) Whole Control Spray & Mole Traps -- Effective immediately2a) Vole Block -- Provides a long term underground barrier stopping future tunneling.2b) Sonic Repeller - Emits a disturbing audio signal forcing rodents to flee the area.3) Milky Spore--Gets rid of the grubs that (mole-vole food) for up to 15 years!Milky Spore is a naturally occurring host specific bacterium (Bacillus popillae-Dutky). This product is lethal to the white grub, a familiar destructive summer-time pest. It targets and discriminately works to attack the white grubs of Japanese Beetles.Milky Spore is not harmful to beneficial insects, birds, bees, pets or man. The product is approved and registered with EPA, Milky Spore will not affect wells, ponds or streams.Vole Bloc is a non-toxic soil additive of coarse particles of expanded natural slate. Vole Bloc is applied as a physical barrier in the soil surrounding the root system and as a mulch on the surface around the stem. The VoleBloc barrier typically discourages underground voles from feeding on the roots of certain landscape plants.The Solar Ground Rodent Repeller by Pestacator uses high-tech sonic sounds to repel burrowing rodents in a clean, humane way. The complex, variable frequency sounds are directed through the tube to penetrate the tunnel systems. Sounds impact rodents' nervous systems; they cannot adapt, so they leave for good.To learn more or to purchase the Yardiac.com Mole & Vole Control program click here

Controlling Armadillos

Anyone who has had an Armadillo in their yard knows just how much destruction can occur if left unchecked. Armadillos will tear up turf, nest under slabs and eat just about anything around your home. To understand how to best deal with your armadillo problem, you need to know a little about their biology. Armadillos belong to the same family of mammals as the sloth and anteaters. Their body is made of a leathery material generally referred to as "armor". The species most present in North America is the Nine-banded armadillo and can be found throughout the entire southwest and southeast. In fact, this species of armadillo is migrating ever further from Texas - the original state it was first found. In some states, they have established themselves after being released intentionally. Armadillos love to nest in rock piles, around trees or shrubs and under slabs. Their burrows are usually 15 to 25 feet long and cause extreme damage to tree roots. In many cases, this damage leads to the tree dying. These same burrows can lead to flooding when dug around crawl spaces and can undermine patio slabs or walkways. This weakening ultimately leads to the concrete falling apart and breaking. Armadillos are strong diggers and rely on this strength for food and shelter. They are attracted to tasty fruit which may be found in a garden or compost pile. Once they start coming around, expect them to return every night as they are mostly nocturnal. They like to establish "runs" where they will travel every night expecting to find food. These same "runs" can be used against them and will be discussed later in the article. Armadillos also love turf worms and grubs. Lawns which are left untended will often develop beetle grub populations which will certainly attract armadillos from far and wide. Earthworms are another food source they like and either grubs or worms can be found by digging up sod, raking away leaves, moving carefully laid wood chips or bark, or simply digging frantically until such food is found. Either way, the mess they leave is aggravating, damaging and never ending once it begins.Armadillos mate in the fall and have their young around February or March. Almost every litter will have identical quadruplets. These miniature adults are ready to walk, swim and behave much like their parents. By the end of the summer, they, too, will be wreaking havoc in the neighborhood! Armadillo control can be accomplished by either a passive, or aggressive, method. Using both tactics will ultimately provide the best results. Passive techniques use repellents and sprays to deal with the armadillos vast food sources. This approach will provide results. Aggressive techniques involve trapping and provide instant control. However, if some of the passive techniques are not employed, other armadillos will move into the vacant territory once the current armadillo is removed. In most cases, both passive and aggressive armadillo control will yield the best results.

Expertly Itdentifying White Grub Problems

White grubs (sometimes called grub worms) are among the most widespread and destructive insect pests of turf grasses. "White grubs" is the generic term for the larvae of at least 10 different species of beetles in the United States. As larvae, all are generally similar in appearance, habits and the damage they cause, although they mature into different beetles. They damage turf grass by chewing off the roots near the soil surface. To make matters worse, predators such as birds, skunks, raccoons, armadillos and foxes, may dig up infested turf to feed on the grubs, causing more damage. Grubs tend to do most of their damage from late summer to early fall. Shown at left are photos of a typical white grub and an adult Masked Chafer. The Green June Beetle, pictured below, is another adult whose larvae fall into this category. Early symptoms of white grub infestation include gradual thinning, yellowing, wilting in spite of adequate soil moisture and appearance of scattered, irregular dead patches. As damage continues the dead patches join together and increase in size. Turf that is grub-damaged will not be well anchored to the soil; it can be pulled up or rolled back like a carpet, exposing the white larvae. If the damaged turf does not pull up easily, the brown patches usually are from other causes -- dog urine, chemical spills, fertilizer burn, drought, localized dry spot or disease. The presence of moles, flocks of foraging birds or digging by skunks, raccoons or other predators often indicate that grubs are present. Source: Destructive Turf grass Insects by Daniel A. Potter. Photos courtesy of the Texas Agricultural Extension Service.

Mole & Vole Control Can Be Tricky!

Say Goodbye to Moles and Voles Forever! Getting rid of moles and voles can be a difficult task! However by following a few simple steps it can be done. If you are looking for a quick removal of the pesky vagrants, use the Yardiac.com Whole control. Whole Control promotes and restores lawn and garden areas by inhibiting the formation of burrows, tunnels, ridges and holes that may be caused by Armadillos, Moles, Voles, Pocket Gophers, Prairie Dogs & Nutrias. Whole Control contains active ingredients that are natural and biodegradable. The product is not destroyed by rain and may remain effective for up to three months when applied as directed. This concentrate is sprayed directly into the areas where armadillos, moles, voles, gophers, and other burrowing animals are digging.It is not a poison and will not hurt any animals. Whole Control will leave a residual in the ground which tastes awful. As invaders dig, they will come in contact with the bad tasting soil and quickly decide the bad taste is too strong and prompt them to find food elsewhere. Apply Whole Control when the signs of digging, tunneling and burrowing by animals first appear. For year round control apply Spring, Summer & Fall. DO NOT APPLY DIRECTLY TO LAKES, PONDS, STREAMS OR OTHER STANDING WATER. For a more permanent control we recommend using the Yardiac.com Mole and Vole Eradication Program. It requires using all three of the following products, in combination.1) Whole Control Spray & Mole Traps -- Effective immediately2a) Vole Block -- Provides a long term underground barrier stopping future tunneling.2b) Sonic Repeller - Emits a disturbing audio signal forcing rodents to flee the area.3) Milky Spore--Gets rid of the grubs that (mole-vole food) for up to 15 years! Milky Spore is a naturally occurring host specific bacterium (Bacillus popillae-Dutky). This product is lethal to the white grub, a familiar destructive summer-time pest. It targets and discriminately works to attack the white grubs of Japanese Beetles.Milky Spore is not harmful to beneficial insects, birds, bees, pets or man. The product is approved and registered with EPA, Milky Spore will not affect wells, ponds or streams. Vole Bloc is a non-toxic soil additive of coarse particles of expanded natural slate. Vole Bloc is applied as a physical barrier in the soil surrounding the root system and as a mulch on the surface around the stem. The VoleBloc barrier typically discourages underground voles from feeding on the roots of certain landscape plants. The Solar Ground Rodent Repeller by Pestacator uses high-tech sonic sounds to repel burrowing rodents in a clean, humane way. The complex, variable frequency sounds are directed through the tube to penetrate the tunnel systems. Sounds impact rodents' nervous systems; they cannot adapt, so they leave for good. To learn more or to purchase the Yardiac.com Mole & Vole Control program click here.

Protect Those Spring Bulbs From Critters!

Between the squirrels, moles, deer and rabbits, having a successful spring bulb display can be challenging and frustrating. But there are several steps you can take to outwit these critters.Some gardeners have had success with repellents such as mothballs or blood meal. However, the best trick we have found is to dip the bulbs in a product called Tree Guard before planting them. Tree Guard's latex based formula resists water and keeps working for an entire season. A unique latex polymer carries the active ingredient, Bitrex, and holds it to the surface of the plant, resisting rain, and wash-off for up to 100 days is what makes TREE GUARD different. Tree Guard has a foul taste and smell that critters know to stay away from! It really does work. Then, cover the bulbs with a few handfuls of a sharp gravel as a good deterrent because it hurts the squirrels' feet. And if you can't get the squirrels to leave your tulips alone, try planting daffodils. they don't like them. Visit our website to see our full line of critter ridders!

Deer Control 101

If you have mature plants that are being devoured by deer, it's time to take action! Deer Repellents can be very effective and easy to use. Deer will almost always stay away from plants that offend two or more senses. Therefore, if a plant tastes and smells offensive deer will avoid the general area it's planted in. Deer resistant gardener use's this knowledge to their advantage. Yardiac.com recommends using two deer deterrents together (one that offends the sense of smell and one that offends the sense of taste) they will render your tasty plant repulsive to deer. The best combination we have found is: Tree Guard or Hot Pepper Wax used in conjunction with Coyote Urine. Using two products will activate the sense of smell and taste and encourage the deer to move on to more attractive foliage (hopefully not your neighbors'). You can learn more about or purchase these products at Yardiac.com's deer repellent department. Deer hate hot and spicy foods After one little nibble of a plant coated with hot pepper wax they will definitely say, "No thank you!" when it comes time for seconds. Hot pepper wax combines hot cayenne pepper extract in a food-grade wax. Unlike some solutions, the wax will not wash off of your plants for several weeks. Applying hot pepper wax to the surfaces of your plants & hanging dispensers filled with Coyote Urine is possibly the most effective method of protecting your plants from deer browsing. Most deer deterrents work on the premise of "offending" one of the deer's five senses: sight, taste, smell, hearing or touch. Predator urine works on the sense of smell, while hot pepper wax works on the sense of taste. Using these two products together you are not just offending one sense, but two. Say Bye to Bambi Visit Yardiac.com to learn what to plant, and what to avoid, to control the deer in your area.

Relief from Burrowing Animals

Animals that burrow through soil are an especially troubling pest for homeowners and businesses, alike. Moles and voles are a nuisance in lawns and golf courses, and increasingly throughout the Gulf States, the armadillo has become a formidable enemy. All three of these pests create tunnels and runways through the soil, demolishing landscaped areas and often attacking trees and ornamental plantings in their insatiable search for food. Moles, as well as the armadillo, being insectivores, feed on grubs, earthworms, mole crickets, spiders, and other invertebrate pests. Voles, meanwhile, eat a variety of grasses and plant roots. "The options are repelling these pests, or trapping them," points out Jim Springer, vice president of Dr. T's Nature Products, adding that trapping programs are impractical. "For many, it's too time-consuming, there are no guarantees, and often, the expertise is not there," he noted. Controlling these pests is even more difficult, he said, because in some states, these animals are protected species. But a new product from Dr. T's Nature Products is registered to repel these animals from lawns, golf courses, and other landscaped areas, where they do most of their damage. Made up of 100% organic oil, Whole Control is a non-toxic, all-natural, biodegradable product that can be used safely around humans, pets, and plants. The product works by interfering with the pests' digestive systems. Applied as an emulsion, Whole Control penetrates through the soil to coat grubs, mole crickets, and root systems. When the unsuspecting mole, vole, armadillo eat these, the creature's digestive system is disrupted. Within four to seven days, Springer said, moles, voles and armadillos learn that the food source is unpalatable and leave in search of more suitable grounds. The product is capable of penetrating soil surfaces because of its unique application system, Springer notes. "We've got a specialty sprayer head that emulsifies that product with water, mixing it 20-to-1, and takes it into the soil 6 to 12 inches when it is sprayed," he said. The product is then re-activated, he added, each time it rains or the lawn is watered. Each application remains effective for approximately two months. (The product can also be applied using conventional spraying equipment - Whole Control can be used as a preventative measure, and in severe infestations, Springer recommends that a grubicide be applied to lawns prior to using Whole Control, to help eliminate the pests' food source. He calls this the "salad dressing effect." "Using all the available means of control in conjunction with each other to make the animal as uncomfortable as possible makes each method of control more effective than it would be by itself," he explained. For burrowing animal control, and a full line of repellents for a variety of animals, visit Yardiac.com.

Controlling Moles & Voles

Say Goodbye to Moles and Voles Forever! Getting rid of moles and voles can be a difficult task! However by following a few simple steps it can be done. If you are looking for a quick removal of the pesky vagrants, use the Yardiac.com Whole control. Whole Control promotes and restores lawn and garden areas by inhibiting the formation of burrows, tunnels, ridges and holes that may be caused by Armadillos, Moles, Voles, Pocket Gophers, Prairie Dogs & Nutrias. Whole Control contains active ingredients that are natural and biodegradable. The product is not destroyed by rain and may remain effective for up to three months when applied as directed. This concentrate is sprayed directly into the areas where armadillos, moles, voles, gophers, and other burrowing animals are digging.It is not a poison and will not hurt any animals. Whole Control will leave a residual in the ground which tastes awful. As invaders dig, they will come in contact with the bad tasting soil and quickly decide the bad taste is too strong and prompt them to find food elsewhere. Apply Whole Control when the signs of digging, tunneling and burrowing by animals first appear. For year round control apply Spring, Summer & Fall. DO NOT APPLY DIRECTLY TO LAKES, PONDS, STREAMS OR OTHER STANDING WATER. For a more permanent control we recommend using the Yardiac.com Mole and Vole Eradication Program. It requires using all three of the following products, in combination.1) Whole Control Spray & Mole Traps -- Effective immediately2a) Vole Block -- Provides a long term underground barrier stopping future tunneling.2b) Sonic Repeller - Emits a disturbing audio signal forcing rodents to flee the area.3) Milky Spore--Gets rid of the grubs that (mole-vole food) for up to 15 years! Milky Spore is a naturally occurring host specific bacterium (Bacillus popillae-Dutky). This product is lethal to the white grub, a familiar destructive summer-time pest. It targets and discriminately works to attack the white grubs of Japanese Beetles.Milky Spore is not harmful to beneficial insects, birds, bees, pets or man. The product is approved and registered with EPA, Milky Spore will not affect wells, ponds or streams. Vole Bloc is a non-toxic soil additive of coarse particles of expanded natural slate. Vole Bloc is applied as a physical barrier in the soil surrounding the root system and as a mulch on the surface around the stem. The VoleBloc barrier typically discourages underground voles from feeding on the roots of certain landscape plants. The Solar Ground Rodent Repeller by Pestacator uses high-tech sonic sounds to repel burrowing rodents in a clean, humane way. The complex, variable frequency sounds are directed through the tube to penetrate the tunnel systems. Sounds impact rodents' nervous systems; they cannot adapt, so they leave for good. To learn more or to purchase the Yardiac.com Mole & Vole Control program click here

Effective Deer Repellents

If you have mature plants that are being devoured by deer -- it's time to take action! Deer Repellents can be very effective and easy to use. Deer will almost always stay away from plants that offend two or more senses. Therefore, if a plant tastes and smells offensive deer will avoid the general area it's planted in. Deer resistant gardener use's this knowledge to their advantage. Yardiac.com recommends using two deer deterrents together (one that offends the sense of smell and one that offends the sense of taste) they will render your tasty plant repulsive to deer. The best combination we have found is: Tree Guard or Hot Pepper Wax used in conjunction with Coyote Urine. Using two products will activate the sense of smell and taste and encourage the deer to move on to more attractive foliage (hopefully not your neighbors'). You can learn more about or purchase these products at Yardiac.com's animal repellent department. Deer hate hot and spicy foods After one little nibble of a plant coated with hot pepper wax they will definitely say, "No thank you!" when it comes time for seconds. Hot pepper wax combines hot cayenne pepper extract in a food-grade wax. Unlike some solutions, the wax will not wash off of your plants for several weeks. Applying hot pepper wax to the surfaces of your plants & hanging dispensers filled with Coyote Urine is possibly the most effective method of protecting your plants from deer browsing. Why do predator urine and hot pepper wax work best when used together? Most deer deterrents work on the premise of "offending" one of the deer's five senses: sight, taste, smell, hearing or touch. Predator urine works on the sense of smell, while hot pepper wax works on the sense of taste. Using these two products together you are not just offending one sense but two.