Winterize Your Engines!

Yardiacs take enormous pride in their "small engine" equipment. After all, most could not do the job without them! Properly storing your equipment will ensure it will be in good condition when you need to use them again next spring. Remove any plant material, or dirt, on the equipment with a scraper or a pressure washer. If you use a pressure washer to clean the equipment, avoid spraying engines with water. Dry the equipment thoroughly and wipe down any bare metal parts with light machine oil. Remove and sharpen any blades and drain the motor oil. It's important to add a gasoline stabilizer to fuel tanks before putting equipment away. The stabilizer prevents the gas from forming gums and varnishes when stored for several months. These gums and varnishes will clog carburetor jets, foul spark plugs and can cause valve and piston rings to stick. Fill tanks with fresh gas and follow the directions on the bottle of stabilizer. Cover the equipment with plastic sheets or tarps, and store them in a dry place. If they need to be repaired, use this opportunity to take them to a repair shop now before the spring rush. Don't miss the Yardiac.com Patio Furniture Covers section. Yardiac's got you covered!

Provide the Required Oxygen to Your Pond

Use a pond de-icer to heat a small opening in the top of your pond where it normally would freeze. A de-icer will keep an area thawed in the pond, allowing the release of toxic gases from decomposing organic matter to escape and at the same time, allowing oxygen to enter your pond. Used primarily for ponds containing fish. The pond de-icers have automatic thermo-regulators inside and turn on when the water temperature hits 44F. The "heat" generated by the de-icer will keep an area of the pond's surface from freezing, allowing the toxic gases to escape and oxygen to enter.

An Attractive Winter Jacket For Your Plants

Burlapping your plants has been a long standing tradion for many northern gardeners. For those who don't care to fiddle with these DIY mechanics might find the new Shrub Guard winter jacket, the perfect answer for winter shrub protection. Made from a non-woven material in a subtle sage green print, ShrubGuard protects buds and branches from drying winds, winter sun, hungry animals, road salt and frost. The sage green color and leaf print is quite subtle and attractive in the landscape. Shrub Guard is simple to use; opens at the side and has a drawstring at both the top and bottom so the top may be kept open to allow snow to fall through, which helps insulate and hydrate the plant. This also prevents snow from crushing the plant. ShrubGuard is also perfect to extend the season by providing protection from early and late frosts. It will also protect from a sudden drop in temperature, keeping the plant warm during a temporary cold spell by as much as 5 to 10 degrees

Heated Hose - Why Do You Need One?

Freezing temperatures are right around the corner and now is the time to prepare. For years we have recommend removing and storing your outdoor hose – check out our new “heated hose”. Heated hoses solve the problem of delivering water outdoors in temperatures below freezing. Yardiac’s thermostatically controlled hose has a 92" 120-volt electrical cord set attached, which activates a heating element built into the hose. Plug in hose when needed and unplug when finished. Thermostatically controlled heating element turns on if the ambient temperature is below 95°F and shuts off at 105°F. The heating element heats whenever the hose is plugged in. Frozen water in the hose thaws within 5 to 10 minutes (depending on the temperature) when plugged back in. • Ideal for watering animals once per day. • Excellent choice for promoting seed germination • Radiant Heating makes it idea melting ice and snow.

Cool Season Containers

If you think container gardening is just for the spring and summer, think again.  Cool season container gardening is just as fun.  You can achieve the same level of beauty and variety as in the warmer weather. 

Choose a container large enough to accommodate several plants, one equipped with the necessary drainage.  If the planter you like doesn't have drainage, you can most always drill it yourself, with a household electric drill.  Use a lightweight container instead of the traditional terra-cotta or stone for winter gardening.  A good lightweight planter will not be made of foam.  It will have UV inhibitors, and usually a warranty.  Some will offer as much as a ten year warranty against fading, cracking, etc, in any US climate.  They will require a little more of an initial investment, but if you are planning on long term usage, that is certainly the way to go. 

Select a potting mix that includes controlled release fertilizer, or add it to the mix yourself.  You can supplement with an additional water soluble fertilizer every few weeks or so.  Just remember to read the instructions before you use. 

In selecting plants, use the 'thriller-spiller-filler' approach.  The thriller will be your stunning center piece.  The spiller will waterfall over the edge of the pot, and the filler is for everything in between.  Be sure to choose plants that grown in a common moisture range. 

Don't forget water needs.  You do not have to water daily, like in the summer, but supplemental irrigation will be required, depending on the plants' needs.  

February Pruning Tips

Most pruning of deciduous plants occurs in the dormant winter season. For best results, learn the growth habits of plants. For woody plants, remove dead, diseased, or damaged wood first. Then prune for shape, size, or fruit production. Remove suckers and water sprouts from flowering and fruiting trees. Prune plants that form flowers on wood grown the same season in late winter before buds swell. Prune most roses in late winter or early spring. Prune those that bloom once a year after blooming. In severe climates, cut back only wood that has died over winter. Prune only dead wood on climbers for the first two or three years. Prune old, shrub, and species roses lightly to shape them and remove dead wood. Shape hedges with the top slightly narrower than the base so light can reach lower leaves. Three basic tools suffice for most pruning jobs: shears, loppers, and a pruning saw. Keep them sharp for clean cuts; disinfect after pruning diseased material. Don't forget to stock up on gloves, one of the secondary, but very important, tools of pruning!! Yardiac.com has a great selection, for the most discriminating gardener.

Winter Greenhouse

Winter greenhouses can be a real challenge, but it can be done.  Plants, like people, cannot thrive in poor atmospheric conditions.  When the sun is bright it is easy to keep the air inside the greenhouse fresh, despite the freezing temperatures outdoors.  The greenhouse traps more than enough heat to warm the plants.  During sunny days, slightly open side vents or roll down one door an inch or so from the top.  On very windy days be sure to close vents and doors on the windward side, sealing them completely during heavy snowfall and storms.  Always keep your roof clear of snow.  On cold nights, artificial heat keeps air in motion.  Leave only a small cracked opening in a door or vent.  During long spells of cloudy weather you will need to use artificial heat during the day to maintain your ideal temperature, which is determined by the plants you are keeping.  You can find the perfect temperature for your plants by reading as much as you can about each variety you keep.  Placing several pails of water inside your greenhouse can raise the humidity.  Some plants will need more than others.  Another thing to study is how much water your plants need during the winter.  They will need some, but maybe not as much as in the summer.  -Just don't forget to water altogether.  Avoid drafts, sudden changes in temperature, or dry, burned out air.  These conditions will surely stifle any plant's growth.  A large thermal mass, usually water or rock can be used in your greenhouse to absorb and store heat during the day.  At night this stored heat is released, warming your greenhouse.  A 55- gallon drum of water works well in a walk in greenhouse.  Placing a heating pad beneath the drum will generate additional warmth.  Adjusting the vent openings will change the inside temperature reading.  Always use extreme caution when using electrical devices.  Keep away from water in case of electrical shock or fire.

Share your winter gardening tips with your fellow Yardiacs by posting a comment on the Yardiac Blog Spot!

More On Winter Container Gardening

A short time ago you may have read an article about winter container gardening.  Today, I will introduce you to some plants that are perfect starters for the winter containers.  Some you may have heard of.  Others may be new to you.  Please feel free to throw in your suggestions, as well. 

Pansies - numerous cultivars available.  Recent trials performed by the University of FL identified 'best of class' cultivars pictured at http://vtgcrec.ifas.ufl.edu/PansyVTphotos.pdf

Snapdragons - numerous cultivars available including the 'Rocket' series, 'Candy Corn', 'Frosted Sunset', 'Black Prince', and 'Night & Day'.  This one is a lot of fun to grow!

Dusty miller - woolly, silvery-gray foliage with a low, mound-like habit

Johnny jump ups - numerous cultivars including: 'Helen Mount' (prolific tiny flowers of purple, lavender and yellow, the traditional Johnny jump up).  'Sorbet' series includes 'Lemon Chiffon', 'Blueberry Cream', 'Yellow Frost', 'Blackberry Cream' and 'Purple Duet'-very prolific blooming in soft pastels.

Ornamental cabbage and kale - numerous cultivars including 'Red Bor' (deep purple ruffled leaves that can reach 3feet.  -One of the few winter annuals with height in the landscape.) 'Peacock Red' and 'Peacock White' (large open plants up to 2 feet across with leaves shaped like abstract feathers.  'Red Feather' and 'White Feather' (similar to 'Peacock Red' and 'Peacock White' with less serrated foliage.  'Nagoya Red' and 'Nagoya White' (form tight balls of heavily ruffled foliage.)  'Osaka Pink', 'Osaka White' and 'Osaka Red' (smooth, flat leaves.  The center rosettes turn bright purple, pink or white while the bottom half of their foliage remains green.)

These are just a few examples.  I will be posting more winter growing ideas shortly.  I hope you will post your suggestions, and winter growing tips.

Pruning A Large Tree Limb

The best time to remove a limb from a tree is winter, except in the cases of maples, birches, and other trees that produce copious sap. For such trees summer is a better time (in subtropical climates the end of the dry season is preferred). If you can easily reach the limb with a ladder, there is no reason not to tackle the job yourself. However, if you’re thinking about climbing up into the branches to remove a limb, don’t. This is a dangerous task best left to professionals who have the proper training and equipment.

You can ensure your own safety by following a few precautions. Be certain your ladder rests on a firm base; if the ground is soft, set the ladder on some planks. Lash taller ladders to the tree and have someone hold the base of the ladder while you work. But keep other spectators away. And note where the limb will fall, making sure its drop won’t injure people or plants. If its fall might damage a valued shrub, say, tie a rope around it, pass the rope over another limb higher in the tree, and lower the cut limb slowly to the ground.

There are many reasons why you may need to remove a sizable limb from one of your trees. The limb may be damaged, diseased, or dead. It may be rubbing against another branch. Or it may just displease you; the tree would look better, you decide, without that particular branch. Any limb with a diameter greater than one inch should be sawed. For limbs up to two inches in diameter or even slightly larger, and for limbs growing close to another, a narrow, curved pruning saw is the ideal tool and is easy to use, as it cuts by a pulling rather than a pushing action. For cutting larger limbs, a straight pruning saw with teeth on both sides of the blade can be used. But handier for most amateurs (because it can be used for jobs other than pruning) is a bow saw, which has a detachable blade mounted on a C-shaped frame. In any case, do not use a chain saw, which is far too perilous for someone balancing on a ladder.

Now, another way to trim your trees, is with a pruning system. You eliminate the use of ladders, which makes it a lot safer. Fred Marvin pruners are used by professionals, everywhere, but they are also available to homeowners. They are lightweight, and easy to use. They are made of high-grade steel to permit several resharpenings, for a lasting and durable pruner. You can use use longer poles, to reach higher limbs. You can use special pruner heads, for trickier pruning.

Winterizing Roses

While wild roses and other native species are assuredly programmed to endure the wide temperature swings of their areas, hybrid teas are for the most part descended from plants of frost-free or moderate regions. They are thus naturally vulnerable to the onslaught of cold. Deep freezing breaks their cell walls and dries out their canes; overnight they turn black and are gone. So the prudent gardener must protect them. The amount of protection a hybrid tea rose needs depends on the climate. In general, roses grown in USDA Zones 8 to 10 need no special precautions, while those in Zones 6 and 7 will probably require covering and those in 5 and below most surely will. Another guideline: If your temperatures stay below 20 degrees Fahrenheit for considerable periods of time without a predictable snow blanket to shield plants, protect your roses. Still another: If the ground freezes solid for most of the winter and temperatures are likely to drop below 10 degrees, again without consistent snow cover, your hybrid teas will need covering. If very low temperatures are infrequent and heavy rains keep the ground wet, the bushes are better left uncovered, as wetness encourages fungus diseases and other ills. Although specially made plastic coverings can be purchased, the time-honored (and perhaps simplest) method of protecting hybrid tea bushes is to pile up dirt around the base of the bush. The process is known as hilling and is done just before the ground is likely to freeze solid. The hill should reach a height of six or eight inches if you are in a moderate zone, but at least 12 inches in colder areas (Zones 6 and colder). The soil conducts heat up from the ground (which even if frozen will be warmer than air whipped by icy blasts) to the crown and lower reaches of the bush; if that much of the bush survives the winter, the rest (even though blackened) can be pruned away in the spring and the bush will swiftly put out new growth to replace it. As with most plants, the best guarantee of a rosebush’s survival through the winter is good care in the summer, particularly pest control. A vigorous bush will withstand cold’s rigors far more readily than a weakened one. On the other hand, take care not to stimulate your roses unduly as autumn approaches lest they put out new growth that will not be tough enough: cease fertilizing by summer’s end, and stop deadheading spent blossoms at about the same time. PRUNE BACK A couple of weeks after the first frost in your area, but before deep freezing sets in, prune your rosebushes roughly to eliminate any dead or weak shoots or any that show signs of disease. Trim long canes by half and shorter ones by about a third. The aim is to reduce each bush’s overall bulk so that it can be most efficiently protected. Don’t worry about such fine points as the location of buds; that can be addressed in the spring when you do precise pruning. At the same time, to help keep your bushes from drying out in the winter wind (dryness is if anything more of a threat to them than cold), spray them with an antidesiccant not long after you have pruned them. By sealing in moisture, the antidesiccant minimizes the damage that can come from cycles of freezing, thawing, and refreezing in midwinter. BRING DIRT FROM ELSEWHERE In late November or early December, or whenever you sense that the ground is about to freeze, bring dirt from elsewhere in the garden and pile it around the base of your plants to the desired height. Lean, sandy soil is better than a humusy mix. Do not obtain it from between the plants, as that risks exposing roots and crowns to freezing and so defeats the purpose of hilling. Pat the mound firmly to make sure it encloses the canes snugly.

Houseplants- Bringing the Outdoors In

Houseplants bring a touch of the outdoors into our homes—an especially welcome addition in the depths of winter. Assuming we water and feed them correctly and place them in a suitable location, they should be free of insects and healthy most of the time. However, even the best-cared-for houseplants are sometimes attacked by pests that fly inside on their own or hitchhike in on newly acquired plants. Sure signs that an invasion is underway are sticky leaves and activity that can be detected by peering closely at the plant. The culprits may be mealybugs (round, white, fuzzy creatures that usually hide on leaf stems or in the axils); aphids (small, soft-bodied, reddish, green, or black insects clustered on new growth); scale (hard, oval- or round-shelled insects attached to stems or leaves); or whiteflies (small fluttering insects that feed on the undersides of leaves). Stippled leaves covered with fine whitish webs indicate the presence of yet another pest—the tiny red spider mite. All of these common houseplant pests suck plant juices, causing stunted or twisted growth. If you don’t take action to stop the damage, the plant will eventually die.

ISOLATE THE INFESTED PLANT

Make a habit of regularly inspecting your plants so that you can spot insects and mites before their population has had time to increase drastically. You have a much better chance of controlling a small infestation than a major one. If you notice any pests, move the infested plant well away from other plants to keep the insects from traveling from one to the next. But don’t shock the quarantined plant by putting it in a place that is much colder or sunnier than its previous location.

After moving the plant, wash your hands so that you don’t help to disperse the pests, then inspect the rest of your collection. If you see signs that the insects have already begun to spread, you’ll want to repeat the following steps for each infested plant. WASH THE PLANT Dislodge as many insects as possible with a strong stream of water from a flexible hose hooked to the sink, bathtub, or laundry tub. Or, weather permitting, take the plant outdoors and spray it lightly with your garden hose. In the case of clinging scale insects, you might have to use a soapy cloth or toothbrush to wipe the plant clean. If the plant is small enough, it is even more effective to submerge the foliage in water. To do so, fill a bucket or sink with lukewarm water. Then place foil, a rag, or a piece of paper over the top of the pot to hold the soil in place. Next, with your fingers spread around the plant’s stem, turn the plant upside down, and swish the leaves in water for two or three minutes. Finally, set the plant in indirect sunlight, where it can dry without getting burned. Another great way to discourage pests, is by using Hot Pepper Wax. It is safe, and easy to use.

Poinsettia Care

This traditional Christmas plant has undergone many improvements in recent years. Excellent new hybrids combined with professional growing techniques produce a poinsettia which will bloom beautifully through the holidays and beyond. Where to Grow Your poinsettia will appreciate a bright, sunny window, but will tolerate lower light levels. Place your plant in a spot where it will not be exposed to drafts since sudden fluctuations of temperature are stressful. Likewise, avoid locations near sources of direct heat. Flowers and their colorful bracts last longest at temperatures of 60 degrees to 70 degrees during the day and slightly cooler at night. When to Water When the soil surface feels dry to the touch, water your poinsettia thoroughly until excess water runs out drainage holes. (Poinsettias should be removed from decorative pot covers and placed in a plant saucer for watering.) After about 15 minutes, discard the excess water. Do not allow your plant to stand in the saucer of water for prolonged periods - this may result in root rot. When to Feed Fertilize regularly with a water-soluble houseplant fertilizer, preferably one recommended for blooming plants. Follow the directions on the label. Possible Problems A plant that still wilts after a thorough watering has most likely been over watered and has sustained root damage. Yellow leaves or dropping leaves may indicate either too much water, not enough water, temperatures which are too warm, or too low light. Professional horticulturists will be able to assist in the diagnosis and treatment of insects, diseases, and physiological plant disturbances. Special Note For many years poinsettias were considered poisonous plants. Many studies, including one at Ohio State University (1979) have proven that poinsettias are not poisonous to humans. However, ingesting very large quantities of stems and leaves may induce a mild digestive upset. The Consumer Products Safety Commission, after reviewing all available information, declined to require poinsettias to carry a toxic warning label.

Deer Control 101

If you have mature plants that are being devoured by deer, it's time to take action! Deer Repellents can be very effective and easy to use. Deer will almost always stay away from plants that offend two or more senses. Therefore, if a plant tastes and smells offensive deer will avoid the general area it's planted in. Deer resistant gardener use's this knowledge to their advantage. Yardiac.com recommends using two deer deterrents together (one that offends the sense of smell and one that offends the sense of taste) they will render your tasty plant repulsive to deer. The best combination we have found is: Tree Guard or Hot Pepper Wax used in conjunction with Coyote Urine. Using two products will activate the sense of smell and taste and encourage the deer to move on to more attractive foliage (hopefully not your neighbors'). You can learn more about or purchase these products at Yardiac.com's deer repellent department. Deer hate hot and spicy foods After one little nibble of a plant coated with hot pepper wax they will definitely say, "No thank you!" when it comes time for seconds. Hot pepper wax combines hot cayenne pepper extract in a food-grade wax. Unlike some solutions, the wax will not wash off of your plants for several weeks. Applying hot pepper wax to the surfaces of your plants & hanging dispensers filled with Coyote Urine is possibly the most effective method of protecting your plants from deer browsing. Most deer deterrents work on the premise of "offending" one of the deer's five senses: sight, taste, smell, hearing or touch. Predator urine works on the sense of smell, while hot pepper wax works on the sense of taste. Using these two products together you are not just offending one sense, but two. Say Bye to Bambi Visit Yardiac.com to learn what to plant, and what to avoid, to control the deer in your area.