Pruning Your Mountain Laurel

  One of our customer's had a question:  Can I prune my Mountain Laurel and if so when is the best time?  Also, can the Mountain Laurel handle topping (pruning which involves removing all branches and growths down to a few large branches)?

  The answer is yes!  Mountain Laurel plants rarely need to be pruned, although pinching off the seed heads after blooming time is over seems to promote better flowering for the next season.  Should your Mountain Laurel plants get too tall for your landscape design plan, cut them back almost to ground level (topping).  These tough shrubs can take a severe pruning when necessary.  From stubs just a few inches above the ground new foliage will arise, and your plants will mature into large shrubs once again in about ten years' time.

  Over-grown shrubs, such as hollies, ligustrum, camellia and mountain laurel, can be cut back to bare branches 2 to 4 feet (or lower) from the ground.  The plant should recover in two to three years.  Recovery depends on the health of the plant and cultural practices such as fertilization, mulching, watering and insect/disease control. 

  The best time to prune your Mountain Laurel is in the Late Spring/Early Summer.  Pinch off clusters of spent blossoms.  Remove a few old branches at the ground to induce new growth from roots.

Toad Houses to Brighten Your Garden by Emily Weathers

Garden season is just around the corner, which means it’s time to start thinking of how to make it more exciting than last year. This year, you should start with a toad house. There are several Toad Houses now available that you would have never thought of that are so unique that will defiantly stand out from others! You can get a castle for your prince or a 70’s style house to a Toad Spaceship. Not only are these decorative, but they will help the garden as well. We know not all toads are cute, but they have their ways. Toads consume approximately 110 bugs a day, such as moths, beetles, slugs and other bugs that like to damage your garden. Now that's definitely help to your garden! To spoil the helper toad, you may want to add a garden light, which not only will accent the garden, it will attract moths and other night bugs that will definite interest the toad in a snack. After a long night of snaking away, they need a cozy, moist resting place to hide during those humid summer days.

Once the toad house is chosen, you need to find the perfect location. The toad has needs to be placed under vegetation in a discrete and moist place. If you don’t have a pond you can water this location daily with a watering can to keep it moist. Toads drink by soaking in water and absorbing it through their skin. Another option for a pond would be to make your own pond.

You would need to take a small try, or pie dish and burry I partially in the ground and fill with water. This should be placed near the house so the toad can enjoy a nice soak! Enjoy your Toad House!

Battling the Ivy

Poison ivy, poison oak and poison sumac are the most frequent cause of allergic reactions, affecting as many as 10 million Americans each year!! So, be informed, and safeguard your family, as you enjoy the Summer. Leaves of Three, Let Them Be: Poison Ivy, Poison Oak Poison Sumac Recognize: Poison Ivy and Poison Oak have an extended middle leaf. In fact, Poison Sumac has seven green leaves. Poison Ivy A climbing plant that is especially common in the eastern and central U.S., that has leaves in groups of three, greenish flowers, and white berries, and that produces a very irritating oil usually causing an intensely itchy skin rash. Poison Oak Also a climbing plant, very similar, in comparison. It can also grow like a shrub, and climb upwards of eight feet. It has the same effects, on the skin. Poison Sumac An American swamp shrub that has smooth, but feather-like, leaves, greenish fl.owers, and greenish white berries and produces an irritating oil. Also called Poison Dogwood. All three of these offenders use the same method of communication. They secrete an oil, found in the leaves. For most people, when they come in contact with the oil, the skin becomes irritated, and itchy. It starts out with small red bumps, and, if not treated, can turn into quite a nasty rash. -- Luckily, it's not contagious. Be sure to wash the effected area thoroughly. Once the oil is removed from the skin, and the clothing, it cannot spread. You may treat it, using a variety of methods. There are lots of creams, lotions, and sprays, offered in your local drug store, as well as a variety of antihistamines. The best way to prevent an outbreak is to be informed. Learn to recognize the plants, and be cognizant of how it spreads. When your family comes home, from an outing, change clothes, right away. Rinse exposed skin, that may have came in contact with the oil.

Summer & Fall Blooming Bulbs

No other plants give the gardener more beauty, or a wider range of variety, color and flowering times than flowering bulbs. They produce flowers of incredible colors from one end of the growing season to the other. No other plant rewards you with so much pleasure for so little effort. Summer-blooming bulbs By planting heat-loving, summer-blooming bulbs such as begonia, canna, calla lily, dahlia, and gladiolus, you can enjoy the beauty of the tropics and open your borders to the exotic flowers and foliage of South Africa, Mexico, and other equatorial locales without leaving your own backyard Most summer-blooming bulbs are tender bulbs, which means, in areas with sustained frost, they require lifting from the ground and storage indoors for the winter. However, you can easily use some of the inexpensive bulbs as annuals and replace them each year with other bulb varieties and colors, if you don't want to dig them up each fall. Click here for specific planting and care information for popular summer bulb varieties. Fall-blooming bulbs Although spring-blooming bulbs receive lots of glory and fame, a fall garden merits its own attention. Fall-blooming bulbs are unexpected, colorful additions to your garden. Grown with a backdrop of seasonal trees, fall-bloomers create a spectacular and exhilarating autumn landscape. Enjoy resurrecting your garden's brilliance with our fall-blooming varieties. Choosing a site Light requirements When choosing a site for your bulbs bear in mind their preference for warmth and sunlight. Some bulbs such as caladiums prefer shade while others such as gladiolus and dahlias prefer sunny spots. Make sure to match your bulbs to the light conditions that allow them to perform their best. For light specifications, please see the plant tag or search for your plant on our site and review its "quick stats." Soil requirements Two of the most desirable qualities are good drainage and an abundance of organic matter (humus). You may have to promote drainage, especailly if a puddle of water stands on the site of your bed. To help determine your soil type, scoop up a handful of soil and squeeze it. If it retains the shape of your hand, you have soil with a high proportion of clay and you need to add organic matter to promote drainage. If your soil is mostly composed of clay, it may be necessary to build raised beds. If the soil doesn't hold together at all, your soil is sandy and will need organic matter to help hold moisture. The addition of organic matter and humus will be quite beneficial to the success of growing bulbs. Garden planning Color and time of bloom are two of the most important elements to consider when planning your bulb and garden planting. It's helpful to make a sketch of your garden before planting. Choose which bulbs to plant and their locations based on their height, color, and blooming time. In areas with sustained frost periods, keep in mind that most summer bulbs planted in spring are tender and must be dug up and stored before cold weather sets in. Mixing summer-blooming bulbs with other plants of different textures and colors gives interest in the garden beyond the blooming period. Bulbs also need a site that is protected from the north and west winds, if possible. Wind protection will make your blooms last longer. Make sure to plant tall blooming bulbs in a protected area to prevent wind damage or plan on staking plants upright. Determining bulb quantities One you've chosen a site, you will need to calculate how many bulbs you will need to plant to fill the space. Remember that bulbs look best in groups: A single bulb is a lonely bulb. A good rule of thumb is to plant small bulbs 4" apart (9 bulbs per square foot) and larger ones about 6" apart (4 bulbs per square foot). Therefore, to cover 25 square feet you will need approximately 225 small bulbs or 100 large ones; to cover 50 square feet you will need approximately 500 small bulbs or 200 large ones. Planting your summer-and fall-blooming bulbs Planting your bulbs in the garden 1. Prepare your soil. Good soil preparation is the first step to successful bulb gardening. Make sure the soil is loose and porous. Well-drained soil is a must or bulbs will rot. Turn the soil over and work organic matter such as peat moss or compost through to allow good root formation. 2. Space your bulbs. Spacing depends largely on the effect you are trying to achieve. An effective planting technique is to plant bulbs in groups or clusters rather than in individual lines. Space bulbs according to color with the softer colors in the front and the more vibrant colors in the background. Group bulbs according to height and in sequential bloom pattern for a long-lasting show of color. Also, consider how much growth is expected for larger species and give them plenty of room to avoid the task of dividing as they mature. You can also achieve a naturalized planting look by taking a handful of bulbs and tossing them in your planting area. Plant them where they land rather than in exact spaces. 3. Dig planting holes. A bulb planter makes this job a snap. The planting depth for bulbs depends on their size. A good rule of thumb is that the depth should be three times the diameter of the bulb. Cover small bulbs with 1 to 2 inches of soil; plant large bulbs 6 to 8 inches deep. (See bulb specifics on package, or your local garden center, for recommended planting depths.) 4. Work bulb food, bone meal or rock phosphate into the planting area or hole to encourage blooms and root development. Work well-rotted compost into the soil rather than directly touching the bulbs when planting. 5. Plant bulbs firmly in the soil, pointed end up, and avoid damaging fleshy roots, if present. If you are unsure which end to point up, plant the bulb sideways and it will grow in the right direction. Cover bulbs with soil. 6. Water well. If the weather is dry, water the bulbs regularly during the growing period. 7. Label your bulbs as you plant them. Use labels that are big enough so that two to three inches of the label is below the soil level. Labeling is a great way to remember which varieties you planted. 8. Mulch with shredded leaves or bark to conserve moisture, maintain soil temperature, and suppress weeds. Planting your bulbs in containers A patio, deck, balcony or entryway can provide enough space for a productive, attractive bulb display. Summer-blooming bulbs such as gladiolus, begonia, and dahlia are suited for container gardening. Fall-blooming colchicums sprout and flower easily on a sunny windowsill. If combining bulbs in one container, remember to combine only those that have similar cultural requirements. Enjoy the fun of creating a signature look for your patio, terrace, deck, balcony or entryway with container gardening! NOTE: To overwinter tender bulbs grown in containers, leave the bulbs in the containers they grew in over the summer. Store them where the temperature will remain between 50-65° F, until new growth commences in the spring. Keep the soil slightly damp. When the bulb is dormant, or resting, it doesn't require as much water as during its active growing season. (Overwatering may cause bulbs to rot.)

Azalea & Rhododendron Care

Azaleas and Rhododendrons are two of the most popular Spring Blooming plants. These hardy creatures will grow abundantly with the minimal but proper treatment. Azaleas are one of the most popular plants in the Acid-Loving family. Below are some tips concerning their care: The first and most critical factor in your gardening success is Soil pH. Some plants thrive in neutral soil while other plants such as Azaleas prefer a more acidic environment. The difference lies in the plant's ability to use nutrients present in the soil. For plants that prefer a more acidic soil, a critical nutrient is iron. Iron is most available in soil with a pH of around 5.5. Without iron these plants will turn yellow and suffer stunted growth. If you have do not know what the PH level of your soil is -- Yardiac.com has a full assortment of soil test kits in stock and ready for sale! Lowering soil pH is not difficult. In new plantings, work-in organic matter such as peat moss or compost. For existing plantings, regular feeding with Holly-Tone will keep soil at an optimum pH while providing all the major, minor, and trace nutrients plants required How to Feed Azaleas & Rhododendrons Feed Azaleas in the spring with Holly-Tone and Acid Plus water soluble fertilizer. In general, the proper rate of application is one cup of Holly-Tone per foot of branch spread. This rate should be doubled for plants over three feet wide. Do not work the plant food into the soil as these plants have surface root systems that can be disturbed by such activity. It is best to apply the Holly-Tone directly to the soil prior to mulching. If this is not possible, Holly-Tone can be applied on top of mulch at double the standard rate. This will compensate for the loss of nutrients in the mulch layer. Of course always water the plants sufficiently and fertilize with Acid Plus. Fertilization should occur several times in the spring and fall. Do not feed acid lovers in the summer ( June 1st - September 1st). A second half-strength feeding of Holly-Tone is recommended in late fall. This will help harden off new growth, aid in root development, and enable the roots to store food for use in early spring. How to Prune Azaleas & Rhododendrons Azaleas and Rhodo's both begin to form their blooms for the next spring season in the late spring or early summer. Because of this bloom set it is critical that these plants be shaped or pruned immediately after the current year's bloom. Pruning should occur between May and July after all the plants have bloomed. Try to avoid pruning after August 1st because the blossoms are being set for next spring. Planting Azaleas & Rhododendrons When planting, a hole should be made roughly twice as large and twice as deep as the root ball. One third of the soil removed should be replaced with compost, peat moss or other good humus. To this, one cup of Holly-Tone per 2-1/2 gallon bucket of soil should be added and thoroughly mixed. There should be enough of this mixture in the hole to allow the new plant to sit at the same depth it was previously growing. The soil mark on the trunk can be used as a guide. The bottom of the hole should be packed firmly to prevent later settling. Once the plant is placed in the hole and filled half full with the soil mixture, it should be packed firmly, soaked with water, and allowed to settle. After the hole is completely filled, the top two inches should be left loose for easy absorption of water. A slight depression around the plant will also help conserve water. Adding mulch will also help conserve water, slow down evaporation, and control weeds. Often, plants will be purchased in plastic containers. When removing the pot, inspect the root mass. It is not unusual for the roots to have grown in a circular pattern around the inside of the container. If this is noticed, the roots should be disturbed SLIGHTLY to encourage new growth. Simply score the outside of the root mass with a knife to break the circular pattern. Click to enter the Garden Center