Repotting An Orchid

Repotting an orchid for the first time can be daunting. Although it isn’t a difficult task, it is sufficiently different from repotting other kinds of plants that you may be inclined to put it off. Don’t. An orchid that is allowed to remain in the same pot too long will flower poorly and may even die. There are two ways to tell if your orchid needs repotting. First, your plant may simply have outgrown its pot. For example, if your orchid is one that produces pseudo-bulbs (bulb-like, swollen stems that support the leaves), the new growths will extend beyond the edge of the pot, leaving brittle and easily damaged young roots dangling in the air. Second, the growing medium may have broken down. If it appears sodden and mushy and no longer drains freely, you must repot the plant in fresh medium to keep its roots from rotting.

Unless it is an emergency, the best time to repot an orchid with pseudo-bulbs, such as the cattelya shown here, is just after it has begun to produce a new growth but before the new roots have begun to elongate. As a potting medium, your best bet is a commercially prepared mix based on medium-size chunks of fir bark. If your orchid is the kind that lacks pseudo-bulbs, such as a moth orchid (Phalaenopsis) or a slipper orchid (Paphiopedilum), you may repot at any time, although it is best to do so when the plant is not in flower.

Prepare your work area by spreading out several sheets of newspaper—repotting can be messy. Turn the plant upside down over the paper and thump the sides and bottom of the pot to dislodge it. Often the roots will stick to the pot, making removal difficult. If this happens, use a clean kitchen knife to loosen them. The plant will not be harmed if you inadvertently damage some of the old roots.

Once you have removed the plant, carefully pry the roots apart and shake off as much of the old potting mixture as possible. Don’t worry if some still clings to the roots.

Before the plant can be repotted, you will need to trim the roots. Use a heavy scissors or small shears, and have a sharp knife on hand.

To prevent your cutting tools from spreading viral disease, sterilize each one by heating the blade briefly in the flame of an alcohol lamp or gas stove.

Remove any dead or damaged roots. Dead roots are mushy and light brown; healthy roots are firm and white and have light-green growing tips. Cut off any old, leafless pseudo-bulbs at this time. If there is more than one new growth, or "lead," you can divide the plant by cutting through the rhizome. Each division should have at least three pseudo-bulbs and a new lead.

Repotting an Orchid

Give your orchid the care it craves, and you’ll soon have a healthy plant that’s ready for repotting. The process is simple—you don’t need to be a professional green thumb to confidently tackle this task. A great help, for any gardening project, is an outdoor sink. It really simplifies clean up. The time to repot your orchid is after flowering, when new roots have emerged but haven’t grown longer than half an inch. Water orchids before repotting. Step 1: Tap the container to gently remove the orchid. Remove all growing medium from around the roots. A gentle stream of water can help to wash it away. Step 2: Pinch off any dead or dying roots. Healthy roots are white and firm; diseased roots are dark brown to black. Orchids flower best when grown in tight quarters, so repot into a container that accommodates roots without breaking or bending them. Step 3: Use foam packing peanuts to block drainage holes in the container. Soak fir bark overnight so splinters and dust settle out. In the morning, just use the floating pieces of bark to pot the orchid. Step 4: Place phalaenopsis and dendrobium orchids so that the base of the bottom leaf is right at the surface of the bark; insert new growth of oncidium and odontoglossum orchids one-half inch into the bark. Fill in around the roots with potting medium and gently tamp down to secure the plant. Water orchids sparingly until new roots emerge and grow into the bark. Note: When potting epiphytes, such as phalaenopsis, cattleya, dendrobium, epidendrum, miltonias, and brassias, use orchid potting bark. Orchid potting mix should only be used for terrestrial orchids such as plieone, cypripedium, paphiopetalum, other lady slipper types, bletillas, and bromeliads. Some orchid mixes and other potting mixes contain peat, which causes epiphytes to eventually rot. Additional considerations Containers: Selecting the appropriate container and the proper potting medium are even more important than the right timing and should be well thought out in advance before attempting to repot. The types of containers used for orchid growing are divided into two basic types: those that are porous and those that are not. Terra cotta or clay pots are of the porous type. They allow air to pass through the container and dry the potting mixture more quickly. Porous containers should be used in situations where the humidity is high and by those who tend to overwater their plants. Resin, which is impenetrable, retains moisture and is therefore recommended when humidity is low and for those who water less frequently. Choose a container that is slightly larger than the previous pot or reuse the same container after replenishing or replacing the existing potting medium. Do not plant directly into decorative containers, but rather use them as "slip covers" to hide less attractive pots. Potting medium: The potting mixture will be determined by the type of orchid and by the size or diameter of the roots. When using a bark medium, choose a coarse mix for orchids with thick, fleshy roots and a fine medium for those with smaller, fine roots. Make sure that the package of fir bark you purchase states that it is suitable for orchid growing. Soak the product in a bucket of water overnight to remove any mulch dust and to premoisten the medium before filling the containers. Bark is a decomposing medium and should be replaced every year or every other year before it can decay and cause root rot.

Grow Orchids Like a Pro

Don't be intimidated by growing orchids. These regal plants are one of the most rewarding and easy to grow houseplants. Also, most of them bloom during winter or early spring, just when all of us are eager to see some warm, tropical colors. Two of the easiest kinds to grow are Oncidiums and the Dendrobium phalaenopsis hybrids. One of the more appealing features of orchids is that given reasonable care, they will continue to grow bigger and better every year. As they develop more divisions, they will produce blossom spikes. A fully developed, 10 year old orchid is a spectacular sight to see. Even before it reaches this size, it can be divided and shared with friends. Orchid care tips Each variety of orchid that you grow will require slight differences in its environment, but they will all respond to the same basic care instructions. Light Orchids require bright light and should optimally be placed in a southern or southeastern window. For those with limited window space, artificial light may be supplemented. Group your orchids together in the window or under the light but allow them "elbow" room so that the light is evenly distributed on the leaf surface of each plant. Healthy, happy orchids are bright green; deep green color on the leaves indicates that light levels are insufficient for the plant to bloom. Areas with poor lighting may be intensified by surrounding the plants with reflective materials. For better light absorption, keep the leaf surfaces clean by wiping them occasionally with a damp cloth. Humidity Orchids require 50-70% humidity in the growing environment. If the air is dry where you live, you may increase the humidity by placing the containers on trays of pebbles filled with water or by misting the plants and the surrounding air in the mornings. Avoid using chemically softened water to mist or water the orchids. Air circulation Air movement is also of the utmost importance. Fans should be placed in the room to circulate the air. Periodically move the fans to different locations in the room to simulate the changing of winds in the natural world. Heating and air conditioning vents are not considered simulated winds and should not be directed at the growing orchids. Water Water on a regular basis, but allow the plants to dry out somewhat between waterings. Either rain or tap water may be used, but make sure that the water is room temperature. The easiest way to water is to either plunge the container into a bucket of water or to place the container under a running faucet, flushing out dust and other foreign particles while drenching the soil. Remember to water the container and not the foliage or the flowers. Most importantly, avoid overwatering. Fertilizer Use an evenly balanced fertilizer (10-10-10 or 20-20-20) or any liquid houseplant fertilizer diluted to half-strength to feed orchids that are grown in a soil mix. Use a high-nitrogen fertilizer if you are growing orchids in a bark mix. Bark is a decomposing material and requires a higher nitrogen formula to assist in the breakdown process. Fish emulsion is a natural, organic fertilizer that may be used to feed the orchids in place of the complete formulas. Dilute the fertilizer and apply it to the orchids more frequently than recommended. Once the leaves mature, the plants will enter a more dormant like phase and will require less food and water. You may resume the regular feeding and watering once growth resumes and new shoots or flowers appear. Temperature Orchids grow in varying temperatures depending on their natural environment. Those that grow in lower elevations will prefer warmer temperatures than those that normally grow at higher altitudes. The home environment may range in temperature from 50-90 degrees, with adjustments made in between. Whatever their normal daytime temperature needs may be, most orchids will benefit from a 10-15 degree drop in temperatures during the evening to mimic nature. Lower the thermostat, open a window, or allow the orchid to live outdoors during the late summer and early fall to experience the natural temperature fluctuations of the late summer night air.