The Evolving Greenhouse

Greenhouses have come a long way since the wealthy in Europe and America used them to force oranges and pineapples in glass structures known as orangeries and pineries. During the mid-nineteenth century, the greenhouse developed into a status symbol as well as a practical way to produce almost any crop. Today's greenhouses enjoy a tradition dating back much earlier than even the last century. Its roots go back some two thousand years. And it was not until 1599 that the first practical greenhouse was built. Designed by a French botanist, Jules David, and constructed in Holland, it was intended as a place to grow tropical plants for medicinal purposes. The greenhouse idea soon caught on and began spreading throughout Europe. And experiments to improve the greenhouse concept continued through the seventeenth century. New building technology led to larger and larger greenhouses that housed plants just to please the eyes and palates of European royalty. Despite the elaborateness of these structures, it was the Victorian age in England that ushered in the golden era of the greenhouse. The wealthy began competing with each other to build the most elaborate structures, primarily to house citrus fruits and rare flowers. In America, the first greenhouse on record was built around 1737 by a wealthy Boston merchant, designed primarily to grow fruit. The concept spread slowly, since almost all greenhouses were built for the wealthy. By 1825, greenhouses were increasingly common. Many were warmed by furnace-warmed air; and some were pit greenhouses built into the earth and heated largely by sunlight flowing in south-facing windows. Indeed, the modern concept of the greenhouse is now quite simple and practical. No longer is it the private domain of the elite classes, but something that anyone can have for relatively little cost. Today a greenhouse can go virtually anywhere there is space; it can be attached to a house, placed in the backyard, or perched on a roof or deck.  Home production of all kinds of vegetables and flowers has never been quite as easy, or as pleasurable. Learn more and view our large selection of Greenhouses!

Start Planting Seeds Indoors Today

Growing plants from seeds can be exciting. If you decide in late winter or early spring that you want to try this, follow the charts and directions on the seed packets. This can be a time consuming process, because you will have to nurture the sees in an indoor setting or cold frame, but it does give you a head start on the season. You will need starting trays, flats, a special seed starting mix, a mister, lots of light, and proper temperatures. Most people's windowsills do not offer sufficient light or heat, and some plants require what is called bottom heating, provided by coils, or a heat mat to encourage germination. Artificial lights, such as those used with houseplant work well with seedlings. Remember to keep the lights just a few inches above your seed trays. The First Step Sowing Your Seeds Fill your pots or flats, with your potting mixture, up to 1/4 inch of the top. Then, level the surface. (It's ideal to water the soil and allow it to drain thoroughly before sowing the seeds.) Use a pencil to make a hole for each seed, keeping in mind that most seeds will need to be planted four times as deep as the width of the seed. For fine seeds, cover them with a fine layer of soil. What About Humidity and Moisture Potting soil should be kept evenly moist, but not soggy. Soggy soil will cause the seeds to rot. Use a fine sprayer to water freshly planted seeds or seedlings. Watering from the bottom is ideal. To keep the humidity and moisture levels even, slip your pots and flats into plastic bags. It will also reduce the frequency of watering. Another great idea is a mini greenhouse. It's the perfect way to protect, and nurture, your plants. It will also enable you to regulate the temperature, and limit exposure to the immediate environment. Lighting Some seeds require more light than others, to germinate. Read the label on your seed packet, to guide you. Once germination is complete, all seedlings need lighting to grow into healthy plants. Supplemental light can be helpful. Take Care of Those Seedlings Caring for your seedlings in the weeks following germination is critical to their . Remember, keep the soil moist, but not soggy. Small pots and flats dry quickly, so be sure to check it frequently. If your seedlings are growing in the light of a window, turn them often, to encourage straight stems. The first two leaves you will see on the plant are not true leaves. They are food storage cells, called cotyledons. Once the first true leaves have developed, it's time to start fertilizing. Choose a good organic fertilizer and use a weak solution once a week.

Riga Greenhouse - Looks Like an Onion - Smells Like Rose

Yardiac sells more greenhouses than anyone else - so it takes a lot to impress us - we'll we are more than impressed by the Riga Greenhouse and here is why: The RIGA is truly a greenhouse by the European definition of a greenhouse - designed to be used to grow fresh vegetables, herbs and flowers in the middle of winter. While other so called "greenhouses" using less than 8 mm twin-wall polycarbonate, are considered to be Season Extenders, to be used when only a slight night frost might be expected during the spring or fall season. At best they can only be used to house established plants during the winter season. With a combination of strong materials and durable hardware, the Riga is by far the strongest greenhouses on the market. The Riga hobby greenhouse is constructed with an attractive rustproof aluminum frame. Heavy duty 10mm twin wall polycarbonate on the end walls. Sturdy 8mm twin wall polycarbonate on the roof and side walls. German engineered slide-together assembly. The "onion" shape helps shed heavy snow loads.

The Best Time to Plant a Vegetable Garden

Click to review the Yardiac.com Organic Vegetable Fertilizers Most Yardiacs can't wait to start planting, so they can enjoy the taste of fresh vegetables. However, these plants actually have recommended planting times. The last spring frost is important to gardeners, in order to plan when to set out frost-sensitive annuals, vegetables, and even tropical container plants. Some vegetables are frost tolerant, and can be planted as soon as the ground can be worked. Others are slightly less hardy and should be placed in the ground 2-4 weeks before the average last frost date, which is a specified date calculated for an area after which frost is unlikely to occur. Frost sensitive plants, such as melons, peppers, and tomatoes, should be planted after the last frost. Check with the extension service in your area for this information. Unfortunately, cold weather may still occur after the crop has been planted, and some kinds of protection will be needed to shelter sensitive plants. To retain heat, cover frost sensitive plants just before sundown using nonmetallic containers, or old lightweight blankets, or row covers. Container plants are easy to deal with. Just move them to a garage or other protected areas. Yardiac has a great selection of greenhouses, as well!

• Very Cold Tolerant Plants -- Plant as soon as ground can be worked, somewhat.
• Cold Tolerant Plants -- Plant 2-4 weeks before the first average frost free date.
• Frost sensitive Plants -- Plant after the last frost.

Very cold tolerant plants include asparagus, horseradish, leeks, onions, parsnips, peas, spinich, turnips, and shallots. Somewhat cold tolerant plants include beets, broccoli, cabbage, kohlrabi, carrots, cauliflower, celery, collards, lettuce, kale, endive, and onion sets. Frost sensitive plants include melons, peppers, tomatoes, sweet corn, eggplant, cucumbers, artichoke, and squash.

To view a detailed temperature map, visit us at Yardiac.com.

Winter Greenhouse

Winter greenhouses can be a real challenge, but it can be done.  Plants, like people, cannot thrive in poor atmospheric conditions.  When the sun is bright it is easy to keep the air inside the greenhouse fresh, despite the freezing temperatures outdoors.  The greenhouse traps more than enough heat to warm the plants.  During sunny days, slightly open side vents or roll down one door an inch or so from the top.  On very windy days be sure to close vents and doors on the windward side, sealing them completely during heavy snowfall and storms.  Always keep your roof clear of snow.  On cold nights, artificial heat keeps air in motion.  Leave only a small cracked opening in a door or vent.  During long spells of cloudy weather you will need to use artificial heat during the day to maintain your ideal temperature, which is determined by the plants you are keeping.  You can find the perfect temperature for your plants by reading as much as you can about each variety you keep.  Placing several pails of water inside your greenhouse can raise the humidity.  Some plants will need more than others.  Another thing to study is how much water your plants need during the winter.  They will need some, but maybe not as much as in the summer.  -Just don't forget to water altogether.  Avoid drafts, sudden changes in temperature, or dry, burned out air.  These conditions will surely stifle any plant's growth.  A large thermal mass, usually water or rock can be used in your greenhouse to absorb and store heat during the day.  At night this stored heat is released, warming your greenhouse.  A 55- gallon drum of water works well in a walk in greenhouse.  Placing a heating pad beneath the drum will generate additional warmth.  Adjusting the vent openings will change the inside temperature reading.  Always use extreme caution when using electrical devices.  Keep away from water in case of electrical shock or fire.

Share your winter gardening tips with your fellow Yardiacs by posting a comment on the Yardiac Blog Spot!

HotHouse Gardening

Hot house gardening can be a lot of fun, and can save a lot of money, as well. You will have to make an initial investment, and use your green thumb a little, but it is easier than you think. Home-grown fruits, vegetables, and flowers, or even herbs, make great gifts, too.

First, before you pick out a hot house, settle on a location, and call your local Miss Dig, so you don't dig up wires, or pipes. You will need level ground, for starters. Choose a sunny, wind protected area. Once you have your hot house, be sure to stake it down well.

Organize your hot house for maximum efficiency. Shelving will help.

Watering in the morning, prevents standing water, which causes mold and mildew problems within plants. A misting kit will make watering easy, but you can use old fashioned watering cans, too.

Heating is easy. You can use a ceramic heater, when the outdoor temperature drops below forty degrees. When using a heater of any sort, look for one with an automatic shut off, a basic thermostat control, and a humidity sensor. You can also use thermal storage. This can be done using a large stone, which will collect heat during the day, and release it in the night.

To cool your hot house, simply open the vents. You may want to incorporate a small fan, as well. Ventilation is essential, because stagnant air and high humidity will cause a variety of fungal diseases.

When you are ready to take down your hot house, hose it down, using mild water pressure, and dish soap. Avoid harsh chemical cleaners. Before storing it, make sure that it is completely.

Greenhouse Watering

Watering can be tricky, whether in the greenhouse, in the home, or just outdoors. Sometimes, I find myself shaking my head, at my brown, and withering plant, and trying to decide if I have watered too much, not enough, or if there is some other unforeseen problem. Here are a few pointers, that should help you to be more knowledgeable about watering effectively.

Symptoms of over watering include bluish-green mold growth appearing on the soil's surface, sluggish growth, wilting, and yellowing leaves. Concerning yellow leaves, if you see that several leaves in one spot turn yellow and fall off, this is a sign of over watering. However, it can also be caused by air pollution from a heater or cold drafts. If you notice an increase in seedling or plant diseases or if seedlings germinate poorly, this can also be a result of over watering. Roots need air to grow, as well as water. If you crowd the soil with water, you leave no room for air. The roots begin to die. If you have an increased number of slugs to your plants, you are likely over watering.

Now, let us discuss the variables of watering. The more sun plants receive the more water they will need. More venting equals more watering. Plants have varying water requirements, depending on their environment of origin. The age of the plant will also affect the amount of water needed to survive. Seedlings, for example, must never dry out. Just don't over do it. You don't want your seedlings swimming, or smothering in mud. Sandy or well drained soils will require more frequent watering than clay, or potting, soils.

If you are new to gardening, and unsure of when to water, you are going to like this tip. Remove one inch of soil, from the top, and grab a handful. Form a three inch ball in your fist. Try to toss the ball, from one hand to the other. If the ball is powdery dry and won't form a ball, then water your plants. If the ball falls apart easily when tossed, water your plants. If the ball falls apart, but only after a few hard tosses, ten don't water. Check again, tomorrow. If the ball holds it's shape, don't water today. Come back in a few days.

After you are more a more seasoned gardener, you will be able to look at your plants and know if they need watering or not without a second thought. For now, maybe some of these tips will help you along. Be sure to post your gardening tips here, for others!

Greenhouse Ventilation and Cooling

Beware of overheating! As a general rule, you should have upper and lower vents, to promote healthy air flow. There are two very simple methods of measuring the amount of ventillation you will need for your greenhouse.

For freestanding greenhouses, upper vents should equal 20% of your floor space. Lower ventillation should equal 10% of your floor space. In an attached greenhouse, total venting area should be equal to 25% of your total glazing, or wall space. You can count your open door as ventillation. Try to make your upper vents larger than your lower vents.

Cooling Fans

It is more effective, and productive to use an electric fan, as opposed to using a box fan on the floor, to blow around hot air. If you use an electric fan, place it high. It will pull in cooler air, using your lower vents, and blow the hot air out. You can use your electric fan, in conjunction with a thermostat. All you do is set the target temperature. When the internal temperature rises above your target, the fan will come on, lowering the temperature.

Screening Vents

A very good way to prevent insects in your greenhouse is to use a screen, over your vents. You can buy official 'Greenhouse Screening Material', or you can visit your local hardware store, and see what is available. - landscape fabric, for example. You can also use cheesecloth.

Misting for Cooling

As water evaporates, it cools the air around it. This is why misting and cooling systems work so well. (If you live in a very humid climate this will not be as effective.) Just wetting the floor of the greenhouse will offer some benefits, on its own. A fine mist near an air intake vent increases effictiveness. Make sure that the system you choose produces small dropletts, so you don't have puddless in your greenhouse.

Fog

Foggers work on the same principles. They use even less water, and are typically installed in the ceiling. They are especially useful for seedlings.

Evaporative Coolers

Evaporative coolers operate by forcing air through a moist fibrous material. They use significantly less resources. They are used mostly in very dry areas, but can be utilized by anyone. They are also known as swamp coolers.

AC or Refrigerant Cooling

You may consider extending your home's AC to your greenhouse. This can be cost prohibitive, for most, however. The optimal candidate for this would be the lean to greenhouse.

Shade Cloths

A shade cloth is applied over the top of the greenhouse. On a very basic level, you are simply creating a barrier between the sun, and your greenhouse. If you use that principle, you can get fairly creative, in design. For example, if your greenhouse is not exactly a gardener's delight to look upon, consider covering the ouside with muddy water. You can also use glazing treatments, to do the same job. They just have to be painted, or sprayed on.

Greenhouse Heating

Heating and cooling your greenhouse, can play a key role in the success of your growing season. The first thing to think about, before heating, and cooling, is sealing and insulating! Protect your investment!

Insulate your walls. You can use bubble wrap in the winter, and weather sealing. Also, if you choose a greenhouse will thicker walls, it will retain the heat much better. For example 3.5mm polycarbonate will be less insulating than 10mm.

Heating

There are several options, in greenhouse heating. You may choose electric, Liquid Propane, Natural Gas, etc. Of course, there are several points of concern, the biggest of which is safety. Be sure that the heater that you choose is safe for use in a greenhouse. Also keep in mind that combusted gas, from wood, oil, kerosene, or gas, contains components that are harmful to plants. Ventilation is essential. (There is one exception to this rule. -Non venting heaters. That is, heaters that operate on a high level of burning efficiency, and exhaust mainly CO2, which is great for plants.)

You may also want to consider a Heat Thermostat. All you have to do is plug it in, and plug your heater into it. This will help you to maintain a constant temperature.

How To Calculate Heat Requirements The following formula can be used to determine the approximate heating requirements of your greenhouse: A X D X 1.1 = Btu’s.

“A” is the total wall and roof surface area of your greenhouse. “D” is the difference between coldest outdoor winter temperature and the night temperature desired in your greenhouse.

"Btu’s" is the heat requirement. Subtract 30% if greenhouse is insulated using double glazing or polyethylene liner. Subtract another 30% if it is a lean-to greenhouse on heated wall.

A creative way to maintain heat in your greenhouse is by the use of water. You can use a black drum filled with water, positioned on the North side of the greenhouse. It will radiate a good deal of heat.

Another important thing to consider is soil temperature. If you can keep the soil at 65 degrees F your plants will tolerate cooler temperatures, much better. Heat mats work well.

Greenhouse Frames

Frame Material Frame material typically comes in three forms. You will need to consider your options, and your needs, to make the best choice. Plastic or PVC greenhouse framing kits are inexpensive and easy to assemble. With a plastic framed greenhouse, you can move your greenhouse easily if the need arises. If you are considering this kind of greenhouse kit you will need to take into account how strong winds are in your area. If you live in a high wind area you might not want to use this framing, or at least will need to anchor it down for support. Plastic bends and breaks when under duress from extreme weather, so it is ideal for milder climates. Plastic framed greenhouses are perfect, for the beginner, however. Wood is aesthetically pleasing, especially when combined with glass. It has the added bonus of being a natural insulator as it absorbs heat throughout the day and releases it throughout the night. Unfortunately, wood also absorbs moisture in the air, and will rot faster, requiring more treatment/maintenance than any other framing. Therefore it is ideal for very dry climates. Aluminum will not rust and can withstand extreme weather. Aluminum framed greenhouses are designed as compatible with a variety of coverings from plastic, to glass, and polycarbonate. The channels in aluminum framing generally include details for you to add accessories to or to hang baskets from. An aluminum framed greenhouse offers ease in assembly for the do-it-yourself gardener. No matter which frame material you decide on, greenhouse gardening can be one of the most rewarding hobbies.

Greenhouse Selection Tips

Greenhouse selection is always a topic of concern, especially among newcommers, to the hobby. Here are a few questions, that may get the ball rolling, for you. What is my budget? What size do I need? Does style factor in? What do I want to use this greenhouse for? What kind of greenhouse is best for my weather? Any Restrictions or permits needed in my area?

The first thing to do is decide what plants you want to grow in your greenhouse. Decide if you will start them from seedlings, or small plants. Once you decide on the plants to grow, learn as much as you can about growing requirements. You’ll want to know which greenhouse features are essential.

Set a budget early on, to keep yourself on the right path, from the start. Greenhouse pricing is generally based on features, size, and accessories.

Availability of space will help you determine the size of the greenhouse, as well as the number of plants you intend to grow. Take into consideration the amount of space each plant will take, as it grows, before it is able to be transplanted outside of the greenhouse. The research that you do, on your plants, will help you with this.

If you are going to use your greenhouse to start seedlings, you won’t need a huge structure. In fact you may find contentment with a collapsible or cold frame greenhouse. For growing flowers you’ll want something larger, tightly sealed, with good insulation. If you want to grow fresh fruits and vegetables you’ll need something with lots of space to move around in and extra height for tomatoes, etc., to grow into.

Style is, of course, a matter of taste, but incorporating style into your greenhouse selection is also a matter of funds. If you want to invest in a greenhouse that suits the design of your home or landscaping, or if your desire for a greenhouse leans more toward hosting luncheons than producing fresh tomatoes, you’ll spend a little more than what you would for a greenhouse bought on function alone. Of course a greenhouse with more architectural flare is more than worthwhile if you can afford it- not only is it aesthetically pleasing, but can add a lot of value, including curb appeal, to your property!

You’ll also want to do some research into what is desirable for your environment. If you have harsh winters, you’ll need to invest more of your budget into a sturdier frame, stronger glazing, peaked roof, etc. If you get extremely hot summers and mild winters you may want to look at wood frames which are less costly than some metal frames and do well in dry climates. If you get wet winters you’ll want to invest in a rust-proof aluminum.

The need for permits can be resolved with a simple phone call to your local zoning board. You may find you don’t need a permit, or you may find the necessary steps and restrictions to legally build a greenhouse on your property.

If you have tips that you would like to submit, for greenhouse shoppers, or growers, please do so! We welcome your comments!

Greenhouse Glazing

Greenhouses have changed a lot, since their arrival, into our culture. One of the earliest known greenhouses was built around 30 A.D., for the Roman emperor Tiberius. The walls were made of tiny translucent sheets of mica. In 1599, the first real greenhouse was constructed, in Holland, by a French botanist named Jules Charles. From there, it spread throughout Europe, and elsewhere. Glass became the material of choice, until the more recent adaptation of acrylic and polycarbonate panels. It is much easier now, and far less time consuming to run an efficient, effectual greenhouse than ever before.

Greenhouse coverings, or walls, are very important, in your greenhouse, because it will effect how well your plants develop. Most greenhouses now use polycarbonate, or acrylic walls.

Polycarbonate is, generally speaking, available in 4, 6 and 10mm thickness. It is a twin wall construction with air channels in the middle, which creates the same insulating effect as a thermo window, without the high cost and maintenance of glass. (Glass can let in too much light, which can scorch plants, and does not retain heat well, at all.) The insulation promotes a more even temperature in the greenhouse which provides better growing conditions for the plants. Some polycarbonate, such as that used in Julianna Greenhouses, and some others as well, also has a UV coating to prevent wear and is virtually unbreakable – even against baseballs, rocks and hail. Polycarbonate also diffuses and disperses the light that comes in.

Acrylic is a heavier material that is usually of single walled construction, and also mostly shatterproof. It is more resistant to yellowing, over time than polycarbonate. Acrylic tends to be a little less UV prohibitive, which can be a good thing, depending on what you are growing. Cacti and succulents will thrive. Acrylic is the only solution, if you are going for a very traditional Gothic style greenhouse. It will give you the look 0f glass, with better growing support.

Glazing, or the greenhouse walls, can effect the pricing, on your greenhouse. You will need to think about the climate you live in, versus the native climate of your plants, and the amount of money you intend to spend, when looking at your options. A thicker millimeter (mm) polycarbonate, for example, can raise the bottom line, but may be well worth it, in the end. Be as knowledgeable about your plants' requirements as you can be. This will aid you in making the best decision.

Growing Herbs Can Be Great Fun

Herbs have been cultivated for thousands of years for both their culinary and medicinal purposes. These fragrant and flavorful plants still play an important role in every kitchen garden. Even a tiny plot can provide you with enough herbs to use fresh, frozen, or dried. Herbs are easy to raise, even if you've never gardened before. If you have the space, you can plant a formal herb garden that is both attractive and plentiful. Formal herb gardens use design techniques that are centuries old. Knot gardens, for example, where herbs are grown in a knot-like design, have been popular since medieval times. If you are short on space, however, you can tuck your favorite herbs amid other plantings in your vegetable or flower garden. Many low-growing herbs, such as creeping rosemary and thyme make lovely edging plants for vegetable or flower gardens. In our Test Gardens, we always edge our rose borders with lavender or variegated sage and our vegetable beds with parsley.

Annual Herbs Before planting, it is helpful to note if your plant is a perennial or an annual. Annuals are those plants that complete their entire life cycle in one year or growing season. Annual herbs are generally planted in the spring, although some, such as cilantro, parsley, and chamomile, are planted in the fall in mild-winter areas. The list of annual herbs includes summer savory, basil, borage, and dill.

Biennial Herbs Biennial herbs produce green, leafy growth the first year and begin to flower and set seed in the second. Then the plant dies to be replaced by plants from germinating seed. Parsley and mullein are examples of biennial herbs.

Perennial Herbs Perennials are plants that come back year after year—though some live longer than others. Perennial is a relative word, and a plant that is perennial in Dallas, Texas, may be treated as an annual or tender perennial in Des Moines, Iowa. Examples of perennial herbs include oreganos, mints, thymes, chives, French tarragon, winter savory, culinary sages, English lavenders, germanders, catnips, and santolinas.

Tender Perennials Tender perennials are plants that can live for several years but are not frost-tolerant. Tender perennial herbs include French lavender, rosemary, scented geraniums, pennyroyal, lemongrass, bay laurel, myrtle, capers, patchouli, curry, and licorice. These may be grown in containers or in the garden during the growing season and then overwintered indoors. Some scented geraniums varieties can withstand mild frosts in gardens in Zones 5 to 7.

Choosing a planting site Herbs can be part of any garden or landscape as long as their specific planting requirements are met.

Sun requirements For the most part, your herbs should be planted in areas that receive 6 to 8 hours of sun a day and are protected from drying winds. A few herbs like mints, chervil, and woodruff tolerate partial shade. Cardamom grows best in shade.

Soil requirements Herbs perform best in well-drained soil. Most herbs thrive in neutral soil (pH 6.8 to 7.2). How do you tell if your soil is well-drained? Spray the garden area with a hose. If the water pools, then you need to improve the drainage of your soil. Forking in sand and other soil amendments such as compost or well-rotted manure improves drainage and boosts the nutrient level in your soil.

Container growing City dwellers can grow most herbs successfully in patio, porch or balcony containers. Care must be taken, however, to use good quality potting soil and to select pots or planters with adequate drainage holes.

Planting your herbs

Preparing the planting site

1. Add a complete fertilizer to your chosen site. Use a digging fork to incorporate it into the top 2 to 3 inches of soil and to bring oxygen to the deeper layers of the soil.
2. Move the containers around your site until you find the best placement for your plants, keeping their spacing requirements in mind. Staggering the planting will make the most of the garden space in addition to giving a more natural look. Planting in blocks can conserve valuable space.
3. Water the garden beds the day before transplanting.

Planting herbs outdoors In the fall, you can safely transplant up to 3 weeks before your area's average first-frost date. In the spring, do not plant herbs until all danger of frost has passed. If your area might experience an unexpected cold snap after planting, protect your plants with a floating row covers or even an old blanket. If your area is unusually hot, continue to protect your plants until temperatures moderate.

1. Water your plants several hours before planting so that the the rootball will be moist, but not soggy.
2. Plant on a cloudy day or wait until early evening in order to prevent excessive moisture loss due to evaporation. If this is not possible, temporarily cover your plants with shade cloth, a floating row cover, or even a cloth tent to shield them from sun until the roots are able to access water and supply it to the top growth.
3. Use a trowel to dig a hole in the soil. The hole should be somewhat larger than the plant's shipping pot. If you did not amend your soil already, add a handful of rock phosphate or bone meal to the bottom of the hole to boost future blooming and fruiting.
4. Space the planting holes according to spacing requirements. If rosemary is a perennial in your area, allow 2 to 3 feet of space around each plant. Control plants that grow and spread rapidly (such as most mints) by planting them in large (12-inch) plastic pots sunk into the ground or situate the plants in a place where they can spread freely.
5. Release the plant from the pot by straddling the stem with your fingers and inverting the pot. Gently squeeze the container and tap it lightly to separate the rootball from the sides of the pot. Avoid pulling the plant out by the stem because permanent damage may occur. Then use a fork to "scratch" the rootball and gently loosen the roots.
6. Carefully set the plant in the soil at the same depth it was planted in its grower's container.
7. Lightly firm the soil around the roots to remove any air pockets.
8. Label each plant with a plant marker.
9. Water the soil until it is evenly moist but not saturated. In general, water your plants before they become completely dry, but not so often that the soil stays soggy. After plants are well-established, a deep watering (that is, soil wetted 8 to 12 inches below the surface) every week to 10 days should suffice for most areas and conditions. Early morning watering is preferable.
10. Mulch the beds with organic matter in the spring once the soil has warmed or in the fall once the seedlings have begun to grow. Keep mulch several inches away from the stem or crown of the plant. Spread the mulch as soon as the seedlings are several inches high.
11. Fertilize at monthly intervals during the growing season (March through October).
12. Pinch the growing tips early in the growing season to help encourage fuller growth and a larger harvest later on. Prune on a regular basis with pruning shears or scissors.
13. Cultivate occasionally to help keep weeds in check and to loosen the topsoil, allowing for better water absorption. Avoid damaging surface roots.
14. Transplant tender herbs from the garden into pots three weeks before the first frost and keep them indoors for the winter.

Transplanting herbs If your plants arrive in the spring, you may move them outside on warm days to a shady spot, but do not move them to permanent homes outdoors until all danger of frost is past.

If your plants arrive in the fall and are intended for outdoor planting, they can be safely transplanted up to three weeks before the first frost. If they are intended for indoor gardening, they can be transplanted into larger containers within a few days. Container gardening with herbs Pot size will vary from species to species. Generally speaking, a 6"-8" terracotta pot, filled with good quality potting medium, suffices for a one plant, one season container garden. Do not use garden soil in any pot. Most herbs require 6-8 hours of direct sunlight or 12 hours under a grow light each day to thrive. Mints and some thymes can get by on less light. Regular pinching of growing tips encourages bushier growth. Herb care tips Caring for perennial herbs Perennial herbs come back year after year and can be planted directly in the garden. Most oreganos, mints, thymes, chives, French tarragon, winter savory, culinary sages, English lavenders, germanders, catnips and santolinas are perennials. Although lavenders require a well-drained, slightly alkaline soil, most other are not picky about soil type. They do however need plenty of room - at least 12-18" between plants. Mints require special attention because they grow and spread rapidly. We recommend confining them in large 12" rubber pots sunk into the ground, or situating them at some distance from your other valuable plants. They can easily take over a small garden if not controlled in some way. Perennial is a relative word, and a plant that is relatively perennial in Dallas may have to be treated as a tender perennial in Iowa. The US Department of Agriculture has developed a hardiness zone chart which is widely used by American gardeners, and which is referenced by virtually all commercial growers. If you are not familiar with these hardiness zones, or do not know in which zone you live, Caring for tender perennialsTender perennials are not frost tolerant but can live for several years if given proper care. Tender perennial herbs include French lavenders, rosemarys, scented geraniums, pennyroyals, lemongrass, bay laurel, myrtles, capers, patchouli, curry, licorice and several others. If you want your tender perennial herbs to last more than one season, plant them in 8-10" terra-cotta pots, and either sink the pots up to the rim in your garden, or place the pots on your porch or patio. In the fall, three weeks before your first frost, they should be pruned back substantially, checked for insect pests and disease, and gradually acclimated to their indoor winter surroundings. Do not fertilize during the late fall and winter. Do not overwater. Many will be completely dormant during their stay indoors. Caring for annual herbs Annuals are those plants which grow, produce and die within one growing season. The list of annual herbs typically includes summer savory, basil, cilantro, fennel and parsley (although the latter are also biennials). They can be planted either in containers or in the garden. A few annuals, such as parsley and basil, can be successfully grown indoors any time of year -- under proper light and temperature conditions. Caring for plants from warmer climates Some plants - such as bay laurel, lemongrass, capers, cardamom, Mexican tarragon, and patchouli - are tropical or semi-tropical, and will be winter hardy only in the warmest parts of the United States (zones 8 - 10). Elsewhere, they should be planted in pots and overwintered indoors. All of these plants are essentially dormant in the winter and may drop most of their leaves before greening up again in the spring. Cardamom ginger does best in shade. General care for all herbs

Watering: Determining how often to water your herbs depends on the season, the plant, ambient humidity, air movement, exposure to the sun, and temperature. In general, plants should be watered before they get completely dry, but not so often that the soil stays soggy. Under most conditions and in most areas of America, a deep (so that the soil is wetted 8"-12" below the surface) watering once a week should suffice after the plants are established. If you are potting your herbs, it is very important to use pots with drainage holes, and that they're not left to stand in water for more than a few minutes at a time. Fertilization: Plants confined to pots need more attention paid to their nourishment than garden plants. The easiest way to accomplish this is by feeding with a weak (1/2 strength) water-soluble fertilizer every two weeks during periods of active growth. A natural, slow-release formula will nourish the soil as well as the plants. When foliar feeding, apply the fertilizer in the early morning hours before the sun has warmed the plants. Scratch pelletized or granular formulas into the top 1 to 2 inches of soil. During periods of dormancy, do not fertilize at all -- the plants are resting and will not benefit from the fertilizer. In fact, fertilizing your plants during dormancy may kill them. Harvesting: Harvest annual herbs in the morning after the dew dries but before the day is hot. Give annual herbs their final cut before the first frost. Wait to harvest perennial herbs the year after planting, doing so only once a year. Avoid cutting into the older woody growth. Overwintering herbs indoors: The best way to overwinter herbs indoors is to plant them in the spring in 8"-10" pots and grow them all summer in those pots. The pots can be buried up to the rim in the garden or simply placed on the porch or patio. Natural porous clay pots are recommended. If you decide that you want to bring a plant inside that has been growing in the garden all summer, the first step is to prune back much of the summer's growth. Well before the first frost, dig up the plant carefully, leaving plenty of earth on the roots. Place rootball in sufficiently large pot to easily accommodate the roots and back fill with good quality commercial potting soil. Water well and gradually acclimate to new light conditions. Move from full sun to part shade to almost full shade over several weeks. Appropriate winter care includes providing as much light as you can, even moisture, and reasonable temperatures. Bay laurel, rosemary, lavender and lemon verbena are plants that need to be moved indoors if they are to survive. We strongly recommend planting them in pots in the spring. Repotting: Most herb plants purchased from Garden.com will be in smallish pots. These containers are meant to hold the plants for limited periods. Once they have become acclimated to your house, your herbs need to be transplanted into larger pots. Pot size will vary from species to species - check the information about each plant. Generally speaking, a 6" terracotta pot, filled with good quality potting medium, will suffice for a single season in an indoor garden.

Care for indoor plants: Most herbs require 6-8 hours of direct sunlight, or 10-12 hours of closely positioned grow lights, each day to thrive. South, east or west windows without curtains should suffice for most. If your plants get leggy, they should be moved to stronger light and rotated a quarter turn every week to provide equal exposure for all the leaves. Regular pinching of growing tips encourages bushier growth. The 65-70° winter temperature of most North American homes will be fine in most cases, but beware of either hot or cold drafts, and of placing plants too near radiators or hot air outlets. Most plants that die indoors do so because they got too hot or too dry. To increase the humidity in the immediate vicinity of the plant, place the pot on a tray of pebbles which should be filled with water daily. Drying herbs for cooking Just before plants begin to flower, cut leafy herbs early in the morning after the dew has dried for highest oil content. Wash off any dirt and hang to dry in a warm, airy, well-ventilated location, without exposure to sunlight. When dry and crisp, strip off the leaves and put in airtight containers. Harvest herb seeds when they mature, or place stalks upside down in a bag to collect the seeds as they ripen. Dry in a warm, well-ventilated location and store in airtight containers. Be sure to check all containers in a few days to be sure no moisture is present; if so, remove and dry further. Troubleshooting What should I use to control pests on my herbs? Although not immune to diseases and bugs, herbs are certainly less prone to attracting pests than many popular American garden plants. We generally recommend using organic methods in dealing with pests. Remember - you will be growing many of your herbs to consume in one way or another and with them you'll be consuming whatever pest control you've used. So while there are other effective pest controls on the market, we think using organic solutions helps to minimize exposure to potentially harmful compounds. For flying insects, we use insecticidal soap; for crawling varieties, we use diatomaceous earth.

When I bring my herbs indoors for the winter, they are infested by pests. They do just fine outdoors. What can I do? Herbs are rarely bothered by plant pests in the garden, but they can be a problem indoors. Not because your house is infested (although it could be) or that the plant was infested when you bought it, rather the reason is that indoor growing conditions are not ideal. The plants are thus rendered less capable of resisting pests naturally. The two most common indoor pests are spider mites and whiteflies. Both thrive in low humidity and high temperatures. A reasonably effective, reasonably safe means of control is insecticidal soap. If the plant is small enough, turn the pot upside down and immerse the whole plant in a bucket of the soap solution once a week. If it is too large for that treatment, spray the whole plant weekly, paying special attention to the undersides of the leaves. The key to controlling bugs is to look for them every time you water, and to begin treatment at the first sign. Waiting even one week to begin treatment can lead to an uncontrollable population explosion.

Greenhouses: Getting Started

Location Though placing a greenhouse directly in sun exposure is optimal for many gardeners, it really depends on what you want to use your greenhouse for. You may want to use your greenhouse for starting seedlings or plant propagation; in this case you’ll want to place your greenhouse in partial shade. If such a space is unavailable to you, you can use shade cloths to promote shading.

If you are going to use the greenhouse for growing into the colder season, you’ll want maximum sun exposure. A spot with full southern exposure is best for this. Of course if you lack space in a southern exposure you can make up for heat with artificial heating/lighting, though this will be a more expensive solution. A rule of thumb for sun exposure is to secure at least 6 hours of full sunlight a day. Remember to keep in mind that the sun rests in different positions throughout the year. It is higher in the summer than the winter. A spot that seemed perfect in June may be a problem come January.

Try to place the door of your greenhouse in a direction away from which the wind blows. If your wind typically blows up from the south, face the door north to limit breeze entrance and heat loss. Also remember that shadows cast by any trees or buildings around your greenhouse will change throughout the year. Long shadows can mean sun blockage for your greenhouse plants! You’ll want your greenhouse to be easily accessible through all seasons. You can save your back a lot of stress from carrying soil, water, etc., by making the path to the greenhouse level and short. Make sure that the site you prepare for your greenhouse is also level to prevent stress on the structure and leakage problems.

Heating & Ventilation What type of heat are you considering for your greenhouse? There are plants that love tropic humid environments, while others thrive in hot, dry conditions. Whichever types of plants you decide to raise you will be able to experiment and control your greenhouse temperature through a heat control unit. Gardeners tend to use electric or gas heaters. With a gas heater it is extremely important to remember to properly ventilate, not only for plants, as it can give off deadly fumes, but for you, as you work. Electric heaters also have their drawbacks. One major drawback is cost. Another drawback is if the power goes out. The loss of heat in a greenhouse could mean certain doom for your plants as they freeze overnight in winter. If you are going to use electric heat, have a back up heat source so as not to loose your entire collection of plants in the hours following an outage. The newest heat systems, combined with polycarbonate panels,’ work together to successfully control the environment within a greenhouse. Automated systems do not rely on concrete or brick to absorb heat for overnight cold spells.

Heating Tips There are a number of ways to cut down on greenhouse energy costs during winter. Wrapping greenhouse walls with bubble wrap cuts down on heating costs. The bubble wrap works as an insulator. Placing large containers of water in the greenhouse or using 4-6 inches of stone or pea gravel as flooring are both methods of absorbing heat during the day that is naturally released at night. If you live in a colder climate, or if you are considering buying a commercial sized greenhouse, consider building the foundation below frost level. A greenhouse overrides the natural cycle of weather. It does so by utilizing the energy of the sun. In the coldest times of winter you will want your greenhouse to remain above 50 degrees. Using the sun's power you should only need to add additional heat on rare occasions. You can grow any type of plant you want in a greenhouse, or in a cold house, without the addition of too much heat if you simply watch the seasons; know when the sun is strongest and which plants thrive in what type of sunlight. If you are planting tomatoes from December through February you will find that you need to add supplemental lighting for your plants to thrive unlike March to May when your crop will thrive on sun alone. From October until February is the cold season, and from March until September is the warm season. Adjust for heat intensity as the weather goes.

Cooling Tips Harnessing the sun’s energy in the summer months creates the perfect environment for tropical plants, squash, melons and long season squash and melons. With proper ventilation you can continue to grow plants, vegetables and fruit through the summer while you also work in your outdoor garden area. Cooling your greenhouse, at times, may seem a little more difficult than heating the greenhouse. Once you have survived the first year and are more familiar with how your greenhouse reacts to your climate, knowing how and when to increase heat vs. ventilation will become second nature. No matter which type of greenhouse you buy, all greenhouses will need some type of ventilation. A minimum of two vents, one on the roof and one on a side will stabilize the environment in the greenhouse. If you find that you need additional venting you should keep in mind that you can cut glass/polycarbonate or plastic panels, you can also drill holes into the framing of your greenhouse but you should NEVER cut the framing of a greenhouse to insert a fan. This will compromise the stability and strength of your greenhouse with devastating effects. If you find that you have no other alternative, consult with your dealer for a more appropriate venting system. Cross ventilation helps prevent the greenhouse from overheating. An exhaust fan or any shutters should be situated so that they can take advantage of prevailing winds. Generally an 8 x 12 greenhouse should have a combination of roof and shutter vents that equal in size to approximately 20% of the total greenhouse square footage ... remember your open door can count as part of that percentage. Cooling of greenhouses can easily be accomplished using evaporative coolers, exhaust fans, misting systems and shade cloths. Evaporative coolers are typically recommended for extremely warm areas. Typically misting systems, shade cloths and exhaust fans are adequate for cooling in moderately warm areas. You do have choices in ventilation for your greenhouse, including electric or solar powered vents. Ventilation systems are controlled so that if you are away from home when the temperature goes down the vents will close automatically. A thermostat within the greenhouse triggers an automated ventilation system. In every type and style of greenhouse it is important to have at least one (two is better) -roof vent. Using roof vents combined with automatic openers will ensure that you don’t forget to open the vents, or if you go away for a period of time your ventilation system will still be activated. A choice productive for cooling is a thermostat-cooling fan which evenly circulates air in a greenhouse. You should have a battery back up in case of power outages. Ventilation is most essential for plant growth in your greenhouse because plants need a continuous supply of carbon dioxide to continue growth. Without carbon dioxide your plants will surely die. As you keep the airflow in the greenhouse fresh and flowing, you also are keeping diseases and insects at bay – as they tend to thrive in a stagnate environment. There are a number of solar-powered vent openers that are filled with a waxy substance that expands when it heats up and contacts when it cools. The ones that I use begin opening at approximately 65 degrees and are fully open by the time that its 80 or so degrees. Automatic vent openers are one of the greatest greenhouse inventions. They are generally solar-powered (designed to open as the greenhouse air heats up) and require nothing more than simple assembly. Just remember to take the wax-filled cylinders inside during the winter when it freezes - the cylinders can explode if frozen so by bringing them inside you can extend their life and get more for what you pay for.

Greenhouse Irrigation No matter how you look at it, your greenhouse needs functional access to water. If you have a direct water hookup to yourgreenhouse you may even consider using a misting system. This is especially beneficial if you live in an area where the temperature is high throughout the year. The best thing to do is to install water lines before the erection of your greenhouse. This will save you from additional problems after the greenhouse has been bolted to the foundation. If possible you should put the water line below frost level to protect pipes from freezing in the winter. Depending on your soil type and choice of flooring you may also need to install water drains around the greenhouse. How far the water source is from your house will determine the pricing for installing water in the greenhouse. Still, the price is worth it: Some of the main "in the greenhouse" water uses include: rooting plants in water containers, watering plants, misting plants, cooling bricks / concrete to create humidity, and cleaning pots, containers and the greenhouse itself. If you are going to use your greenhouse during the cold winter months, you will find accessories available that are frost and freeze proof, though if you find that you are having problems with lines freezing you can drain the system and carry water manually until they can be "thawed’ out and fixed the following season.

Best Time to Plant Vegetables

Most Yardiacs can't wait to start planting, so they can enjoy the taste of fresh vegetables. However, these plants actually have recommended planting times. The last spring frost is important to gardeners, in order to plan when to set out frost-sensitive annuals, vegetables, and even tropical container plants. Some vegetables are frost tolerant, and can be planted as soon as the ground can be worked. Others are slightly less hardy and should be placed in the ground 2-4 weeks before the average last frost date, which is a specified date calculated for an area after which frost is unlikely to occur. Frost sensitive plants, such as melons, peppers, and tomatoes, should be planted after the last frost. Check with the extension service in your area for this information. Unfortunately, cold weather may still occur after the crop has been planted, and some kinds of protection will be needed to shelter sensitive plants. To retain heat, cover frost sensitive plants just before sundown using nonmetallic containers, or old lightweight blankets, or row covers. Container plants are easy to deal with. Just move them to a garage or other protected areas. Yardiac has a great selection of greenhouses, as well! Very Cold Tolerant Plants -- Plant as soon as ground can be worked, somewhat. Cold Tolerant Plants -- Plant 2-4 weeks before the first average frost free date. Frost sensitive Plants -- Plant after the last frost. Review the Yardiac.com Organic Vegetable Fertilizers, and tell us what you think!

Very Cold Tolerant	Somewhat Cold Tolerant	Frost Sensitive
Asparagus	Beets	Melons
Horseradish	Broccoli	Peppers
Leeks	Cabbage & Kohlrabi	Tomatoes
Onions	Carrots	Sweet Corn
Parsnips	Cauliflower	Eggplant
Peas	Celery	Cucumbers
Spinach	Collards	Artichoke
Turnips	Lettuce, Kale, Endive	Squash
Shallots	Onion Sets