Establishing a Groundcover

Groundcovers are dependable plants that gardeners everywhere count on to blanket the soil with a fairly uniform canopy of dense foliage. They thus suppress most weed growth from below. Groundcovers offer solutions to a number of landscaping dilemmas. Some flourish in the shade cast by large trees, while others thrive on hot, steep banks. Most species are easier to maintain than lawns, and many are water-thrifty as well. The plants are available in a variety of leaf shapes and textures, with some featuring flowers and even berries. Gardeners in cold-winter areas should plant in spring, so the groundcover has an entire season to get established. Those in areas with hot, dry summers and mild winters may want to wait for fall, when winter rains will help get the plants off to a strong start. Even a groundcover with a reputation for being tough can’t compete or thrive in weedy soil. Use a sharp hoe to cut shallow-rooted annual weeds, or till the soil and rake out plant remains. Carefully dig out any deep-rooted perennial weeds, such as Bermuda grass and dandelions, removing the roots as well as the tops. Small areas of turf can be sliced off in sections with a sharp, flat spade; you’ll need to rent a sod cutter to get rid of larger lawns. Roughly dig over the site, hauling away rocks and other debris. When you’re finished, rake the surface to even it out. On very weedy sites it is a good idea to irrigate at this point and wait a couple of weeks for weed seeds to germinate; the tiny seedlings will be easy to eliminate then, saving you extensive weeding later. To decide which groundcover to plant, consider your climate, and the amount of sun the area will receive. You can also be on the lookout for successful plantings in your neighborhood. Be wary of invasive species that travel quickly beyond their allotted area. If you choose a taller-growing one, keep in mind that it may require shearing every year or so to maintain a leafy, nonwoody appearance.

Plant Your Holland Bulbs

Select large, firm bulbs. Small nicks and loose skins will not affect the bulbs' growth or flowers.

Store the bulbs in a cool (under 65 degrees), dry place until you are ready to plant. Put bulbs into the ground when the soil temperature falls below 60 degrees (late September to early November).

Good soil drainage is crucial! To assure good drainage, dig out the planting area to a depth of 10". If your soil is heavy with clay, mix in a composted manure up to 50% in volume.

Return a 2" layer of conditioned soil to the bottom of the planting area. Mix in either Bone Meal or Bulb food into the conditioned soil following directions on the package.

Position tulips, daffodils and other large bulbs 8" deep from the bulb base to ground level. Space the bulbs 4-6" apart. Smaller bulbs, such as crocuses, can be planted 5" deep, spaced 2-3" apart.

Cover the bulbs with half the dug out soil. Water the area thoroughly. Fill the planting area with the remaining soil and water the area again.

Cover the planted area with a 2-3" layer of shredded hardwood mulch.

After the flowers have bloomed, and the petals have faded, cut off the flower heads with scissors.

Allow the leaves and stems to die down naturally. During this period they are manufacturing food to produce new flowers for the following Spring.

Rubber Mulch

Rubber Mulch offers an exceptional alternative for landscaping and garden mulching purposes. These innovative products have been specially created to provide a long lasting, maintenance free and environmentally friendly way to landscape. After installation, rubber mulch resists fading and decomposition. This green concept is clean, safe and attractive in appearance and is made from 100% recycled materials. Colored landscaping rubber mulch offers the ultimate in rubber landscaping & garden mulch appeal. Our mulch offers consistent shape and our colorization process ensures that the entire mulch piece is completely and uniformly coated.

• One-time application lasts years without replacement
• Non toxic and chemically safe for people, pets, and plants
• Allows water, air, and essential nutrients to be absorbed
• Discourages the growth of weeds.
• Our rubber landscaping mulch doesn't rot, create mildew, decompose
• Prevents the growth of mold, algae or fungus
• Insects or pests (including termites) are not attracted to the rubber
• Won't wash away due to extreme rainfall
• Reduces or eliminates dust problems
• Excellent insulator for tree and plant root systems

Is Rubber Mulch safe for my children? Yes. Our Rubber Mulch is 99.9% steel free, and completely non toxic. The colorant used meets all the criteria required for use on children's toys and furniture. Furthermore, the US Consumer Product Safety Commission tested Rubber Mulch, and proved that it is an exceptionally shock-absorbing product. This is very important as there are more than 550,000 playground injuries in the emergency room each year!

Is Rubber Mulch is safe for the Environment? Yes. The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) says that rubber added to the soil is non toxic and safe for the environment. Current test show that leachate from tire samples were 1-3 times less than those proposed for primary drinking water standards. On the contrary, our Rubber Mulch is a recycled product, helping eliminate hazardous tire disposal sites.

Will Rubber Mulch harm my plants?

No. Actually your plants may be doing even better than before. Water and fertilizers pass through easily and Rubber Mulch provides a coating to help retain moisture in the ground. It also acts as a natural insulator to protect your plants in extreme weather conditions.

How long will Rubber Mulch last? The rubber is colored with a unique paint which makes it very difficult to fade or rub off. It is also UV protected; rest assured that the color will last for a very long time.

Is Rubber Mulch more expensive than traditional mulch?

No. Initially it may seem that Rubber Mulch is more expensive than the organic versions, however, organic mulch must be replaced as often as every six weeks causing it to be more costly in the long run.

Rubber Mulch is very versatile!

You can use it in commercial or residential landscaping, municipal or backyard playgrounds, golf courses, flower beds and gardens, walkways, paths, or even around pools, ponds, trees, and shrubs.

Heath and Heather

Low-growing heath and heather are the perfect plants for rock gardens and perennial borders. The best news is that growing heath and heather is a snap. Both love sunny spots (a full day of sun is best, but a half day will do) and, with few exceptions, these plants thrive in acidic soil. They thrive especially well in coastal climates, where growing conditions are mild and moist. Heath and heather hail from Europe and South Africa, where they’ve naturalized to create breathtaking sweeps of color during peak bloom. You can choose heath and heather varieties to have flowers year-round, from the depths of winter to the heat of summer. Combined with evergreen shrubs and dwarf conifers, drought-tolerant heaths and heathers create an easy-care garden that's packed with eye-pleasing vistas, season after season. Calluna vulgaris, or "Scotch Heathers," begin blooming in mid-summer, and continue their display of purple, pink and white flowers (and every shade of the three) well into late autumn. The sprightly blooms aren't the only attraction these evergreen shrubs have to offer; many varieties' foliage colors and growth habits are intriguing. Erica carnea and Erica x Darleyensis varieties are known as the "Winter or Spring Heaths." They are more tolerant of somewhat alkaline soils than other varieties and can tolerate being planted in open shade. Buds formed during the summer months open into fabulous shades of pink and white during the coldest months of the year, offering color to snowy and bleak landscapes. Erica cinerea, or "Bell Heather," has needle-like foliage on erect stems. "Bell Heather" bears very bright, showy bell-shaped flowers in shades of magenta, purple and white from late spring on. Erica tetralix, "Cross-leaved Heath," bears flowers on the tips of branches in pendulous terminal clusters for most of the summer. These are very neat and compact plants. Erica vagans, "Cornish Heath," has glossy green foliage with a wide and spreading habit. Masses of bell-shaped flowers are born along the stems starting in July and lasting throughout the summer. Erica x watsonii, "Watson's Heath," is a natural hybrid of E. ciliaris and E. tetralix found in Truro, Cornwall England. It has similar characteristics as E. tetralix but is slightly hardier and flowers heavier and longer. Tips of new growth are brightly colored Choosing a site Soil requirements The success of any garden depends on proper soil preparation. Ideal soil for most heaths and heathers is slightly acidic, has excellent drainage and contains generous amounts of organic matter (such as wet peat moss, well-rotted compost, etc.) worked in to retain moisture. Heaths and heathers do not survive in a soil that is too fertile or wet; under these conditions, the plants will produce lush growth that may not harden to withstand the harsh winter cold. These plants require little maintenance once they are well established. Plant in raised beds if your soil is clay-based or if your site is flat. A sloping site facilitates drainage naturally. Light requirements Heath and heather need sun and open air circulation. A southern or southeastern exposure is best. A full day of sun is ideal; however, some species tolerate a half day of full, bright sun, especially ground cover varieties. Heaths and heathers especially need sun to show off their foliage colors and for heavy flowering. Each plant is labeled with all the information you need for placement in the garden. Location requirements Heath and heather need a site with good air movement or circulation. Heath and heather care tips WateringHeaths and heathers need thorough, deep watering 2 to 3 times per week, or when the soil feels dry to the depth of your first knuckle. They should not be allowed to completely dry out, nor should they have "wet feet." Because overwatering is detrimental to the health of heath and heather, first check the moisture content before each application of water. Also, water in the morning. Plants watered in the evening run a higher risk of fungal infection because foliage and soil remain wet over a longer period of time and damp conditions promote fungal growth. When watering, avoid wetting the foliage. A slow, deep soaking is best because it promotes root growth and supports existing foliage. During times of heavy rainfall, remove mulch temporarily to allow the site to drain and dry sufficiently. Once established, heaths and heathers are quite drought-resistant and will survive quite well during periods of hot, dry weather. However, remember to provide some supplemental water during long periods of dry weather. Fertilization Since heaths and heathers prefer a 'lean' soil, they do not require regular feeding -- as long as the soil is amended with organic matter. However, if you do choose to fertilize, use a good organic granular for ericaceous plants (azaleas, rhododendrons, holly, etc.). Scratch into the soil surface around each plant in early spring. Be careful not to over-fertilize and remember to avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers! Winter protectionYoung plants, or those in very exposed areas, can suffer from a combination of drying winter winds and sub-zero temperatures. To protect against these conditions, mulch around the plants to protect root zones and growth below the ground; or place evergreen boughs over the plants in a tent-like manner to act as a wind and sun break for the foliage above the ground. Pine needles, straw, or other light material can also be used to completely cover the plants after the ground is frozen. Pruning Young plants, during the first 4-5 years in the garden, need an annual pruning to promote dense branching. Pruning stimulates new growth and increases the amount of flowering branches. Prune summer-blooming varieties in early spring before the new growth resumes. Remove any dead wood and prune any branches that suffered winter injury, cutting back to green wood. Formation pruning -- pruning or training young plants into the shapes you want -- should be minimal, as the plants have a pleasing natural shape. With sharp pruning shears, cut back last year's flowering branches to a point below the old flowers. Avoid cutting into the mature wood. Remember that lush, new growth will start at the point where you cut, so don't be afraid to cut back to prevent legginess and to increase the density of the plant. Generally the winter blooming varieties, such as Erica carnea and E. x darleyensis, do not require regular pruning. Prune as necessary to keep in bounds and to remove any winter injury. This light pruning should be done after flowering. Remove spent blossoms as soon as they fade.

Perennial of the Year 2007!

Nepeta ‘Walker’s Low’ The Perennial Plant Association has awarded the title of Perennial Plant of the Year to Nepeta ‘Walker’s Low’. Introduced in 1988 in Europe, Walker’s Low catmint has become increasingly popular with each passing year due to its lovely blue-violet flowers and its long bloom time, attractive grey-green foliage, ease of propagation, lack of pest or disease problems, and low maintenance requirements.

• Hardiness - USDA Zones 3 to 8 • Size - 30 to 36 inches tall and wide. Walker’s Low is named for a garden and the name is not related to plant size • Light - Best in full sun, but can tolerate shade in hot climates • Soil - Prefers well drained soil and neutral pH • Uses - Good companion plant for early and late blooming plants. Great for perennial borders, but can be used in herb gardens, rock gardens, as a ground cover, or as a container plant. • Unique Qualities - Will bloom continuously throughout the season if properly pruned. Great for attracting bees, butterflies and other pollinating insects, but is deer and rabbit resistant. Leaves release a wonderful aroma when crushed.

Visit http://www.perennialplant.org/ to learn more about the Perennial Plant Association.

If you are interested in more information about perennials, Yardiac.com offers Andre Viettes Perennial Handbook. Look for more gardening guides, in the future. Also, don't miss out on our great selection of plant care products.

Waging War on Your Weeds

So, the weeds are getting to you! You neglected them and now the job is overwhelming. Here's a little advice: Don't even bother hiring the next-door neighbors' teenage son for a job of this proportion. He will work like a demon for one hour, and then just break the tops off the weeds. You will be right back where you started.

Weeds are what most of the gardeners I know complain about the most. There is no magic potion to insure they will never appear in your garden. Unless you are going to remove a large area of weeds, it is better for the garden, and for the earth, just bend down and pull or hoe them. If you consider the area too large to pull by hand, there are several solutions to your problem. My personal choice is to use as gentle a process as possible, since it's good for both you and your garden, but here I am going to address the chemical alternatives. Let's examine the types of weed killers available:

Contact Killers

Contact killers will kill only the part of the plant to which they have been applied. You spray it onto the leaves, and the leaf tissue is damaged so that the plant can't manufacture food. If there is a strong root system on the targeted weed, such as with nutsedge, burning the tops off the plant won't do you a bit of good. You may as well throw dollar bills at the darned thing. However, we do offer one, very innovative, post emergence weed killer, BurnOut Organic Weed Killer & Grass Control. BurnOut can be used to kill weeds and grass in gardens and orchards. It can be used on walkways, driveways, shrubbery beds and any where else as a post defoliant to control weeds and unwanted grass. Annuals are killed right away with BurnOut, while perennials may regenerate after a single application and require additional treatment.

Systemic Herbicides Round Up is a systemic herbicide. These sorts of herbicides are usually non-selective, meaning that you can kill almost anything green and growing by using them, so be careful and don't get it on the fuschia.

Pre-Emergents Pre-emergents, such as Corn Gluten Weed Prevention Plus, will prevent weed seeds from germinating. This is helpful if you have an area already weed free and ready for planting. However, you would not want to use a pre-emergent if you are planning to plant bulbs or seed directly into the treated soil.

Selective Herbicides Selective herbicides target one kind of weed, only. For example, you would use a selective herbicide, like Scotts Weed and Feed, to kill broadleaf-type weeds in a lawn. To kill grass-type weeds in a ground cover, use a selective product like Grass-B-Gone.

Then there are the really bad boys, soil sterilents. These products not only kill the unwanted weeds (somewhat slowly), but they also sterilize the soil for up to one year. Nothing will grow in the treated area for the prescribed period of time.

Here are a few tips on using herbicides:

1. Spray weeds when they first appear. It is much more difficult to kill them once they have gone to seed.
2. Mix the herbicide of your choice according to the manufacturers directions. REMEMBER, MORE IS NOT BETTER. If they call for two ounces per gallon, that is what you must use. I knew a golf course superintendent who wanted to rid the fairways of Bellis (English daisy). He mixed the selective herbicide extra strong, to be sure and get them all. He wound up replacing the entire fairway on eleven of the eighteen holes.
3. If you have only a few weeds to spray, please don't make up a full tank of herbicide. You will only wind up putting it down the drain, and that's not only wasteful, but also harmful to our environment. Mix only the amount you think you will use. Sometimes that will be as little as 1/4 gallon. Calibrate your measurements of the chemical accordingly.
4. If you are spraying herbicides on to waxy-leafed weeds or ivy, add Wilt Pruf to the herbicide solution to act as a surfactant. It will help the chemical stick to the leaf until it can do its work. There is a new Round Up product (Round Up Pro) which contains a surfactant.

Here is my favorite tip for getting bindweed or oxalis out of your ground cover:

Cut the bottom off a 2 liter soda bottle. Mix the herbicide according to label directions. Gather the weed into the bottom of the soda bottle. Insert the spray nozzle into the top of the bottle and give the weed a good blast. Let the chemical drip for a few seconds, and remove the weed from the bottle. Move on to the next weed, and repeat. This is very tedious task, but it will take care of your weed problem. The herbicide will not touch the desired plant, targeting only the unwanted invader.

Always use your safety equipment (glasses and gloves) Remember, these are toxic chemicals. Use them with respect for yourself and the environment. I often see in magazine advertisements photos of people using sprayers with their respirators hanging around their necks in the upside down position. Martha Stewart was on the cover of one of her magazines with a paper dust mask spraying God only knows what with the darned respirator dangling around her neck!

One more note on herbicide safety: Please clean your sprayer over an open soil area. If you clean up over concrete, the residual will run off into the storm drains, and eventually into a body of water. The storm drain system does not lead to sewage treatment plants, and the herbicide you pour down the drain will be left untreated. This may result in harm or even death of aquatic life. Please be responsible for your actions.

I am not an advocate of herbicides. I feel they are overused and sometimes detrimental to the environment. However, there comes a time when you may have to use one to rid your garden of a particularly insidious pest, nut sedge or bindweed. In that case, they are an invaluable tool. But only a tool, not an answer. Please use all garden chemicals wisely. It's your planet too...

Don't miss the Yardiac Weed Identifier! It will help you to identify the weeds that you have, and show you how to eliminate them!

May your garden always be weed-free!

Perennial of the Year!

The Perennial Plant Association has awarded the title, Perennial Plant of the Year 2006, to Dianthus Gratianopolitanus, commonly known as the Firewitch. Hardiness: Grows well in USDA Hardiness Zones 3-9 Light: Full sun Soil: Grows best in well-drained soils Uses The cheddar pink is excellent as a border edger, as a rock garden plant, planted in wall crevices, or as a ground cover on a sunny slope. It is at home in the herb garden, a formal border or a cottage garden. Planting Information Place Dianthus in full sun locations or in light shade in extremely hot climates in well-drained, neutral to slightly alkaline soil. Do not mulch with deep layers of organic matter. After flowering in late spring, the spent flowers should be cut back to promote rebloom later. Unique Qualities The enticing clove-like scent of this low-growing ornamental makes it the perfect choice for use in a border near the walkway. The blooms offer lingering fragrance. Placement near the walkway allows extra scent as passersby brush fragrant blossoms. Pert, bright blooms make Firewitch a perfect choice for the rock garden or for planting in wall crevices. The perennial quality creates a good ground cover on a sunny slope. The Perennial Plant Association has named Dianthus gratianopolitanus Feuerhexe (also known as Firewitch) 2006 Perennial Plant of the Year. Cheddar pink is the common name of this excellent sun exposure perennial. It is an evergreen selection with bluish-gray, silvery foliage and purplish-pink fragrant flowers in mid-spring. Rebloom can occur in the summer and into the fall. This cheddar pink is hardy from zones 3 to 9. Mature mats of this cheddar pink have foliage 3 to 4 inches tall and 6 to 12 inches wide. Flowers will reach 6 to 8 inches high. This evergreen perennial performs best in full sun in well-drained soils. History The genus Dianthus is a member of the Caryophyllaceae family with species found native to the Mediterranean , Balkan Peninsula, and Asia Minor regions. The genus contains annual, biennial, and perennial species and includes plants with the common names of carnations, sweet Williams, and pinks. The name Dianthus originates from the Greek dios and anthos, the divine flower, which refers to the flower of a god, an indication of the esteem in which the flower has always be held. The common name associated with Dianthus gratianopolitanus is cheddar pink. The origin of the term pink or pinks is likely from the Dutch Pinkster or the German Pfingsten for Pentecost, the time during which the plants bloom. Cheddar pinks are named for Cheddar Gorge in southwest England , one of the locations where it grows wild. The Kayser & Seibert Nursery of Germany introduced Dianthus gratianopolitanus Feuerhexe in 1957. It was largely unknown in North America until a Connecticut nurseryman discovered it in 1987. Pierre Bennerup of Sunny Border Nurseries Inc found two small plants of Feuerhexe in the Van Delft garden center in Noordwijkerhout, The Netherlands while traveling with a small group of perennial growers from the United States . He was impressed with the plants because they were in full bloom, well beyond the normal flowering season. Pierre purchased these two plants and started producing new plants from top cuttings. Plants were shared with other growers and the rest is history as thousands of Feuerhexe have been sold since this Dianthus was introduced into North America . Ornamental Qualities Dianthus gratianopolitanus Feuerhexe (Firewitch) is a low growing, mat-forming alpine plant with narrow bluish-gray foliage that remains evergreen. Brilliant purplish-pink flowers cover the plant at bloom time. The flower color has also been variously described as hot pink or purple red or magenta. The color combination of the foliage and flowers is striking at peak bloom in mid-spring. And if that werent enough, the air becomes perfumed from the scented flowers which have a spicy and clove-like fragrance. Peak bloom is mid- to late spring with rebloom occurring in the summer and fall especially when the spent flowers are removed. The foliage height is 3 to 4 inches with flower stems reaching to 8 inches. This favorite Cheddar pink is hardy from USDA zones of 3 to 9. Landscape Use The landscape possibilities for this cheddar pink are vast. It is excellent as a border edger, as a rock garden plant, planted in wall crevices, or as a ground cover on a sunny slope. It is at home in the herb garden, a formal border or a cottage garden. Plant combinations that work with this Dianthus include Siberian iris ( Iris sibirica) in the spring, later on with threadleaf coreopsis (C oreopsis verticillata Moonbeam or Zagreb ) and in the fall match Firewitch with plumbago ( Ceratostigma plumbaginoides). The striking gentian blue flowers of plumbago compliment the color of the Dianthus foliage. And the bronze fall color of plumbago and the silvery foliage of Dianthus is sensational. A cottage garden look can be created with a combination of Feuerhexe and catmint either Nepeta x faassenii Walker's Low or Blue Wonder. The fragrant garden or the well-traveled walkway is another choice for this perennial with the clove-spiced fragrance. Cultivation Dianthus gratianopolitanus Feuerhexe (Firewitch) is easily grown if a few cultural tips are followed. Dianthus selections should be sited in full sun locations or in light shade in extremely hot climates. The soil should be well-drained and neutral to slightly alkaline. Plants placed in poorly drained soils will eventually deteriorate. In moderate to high rainfall areas, one should mulch with pea stone or gravel to keep foliage clean and dry. Do not mulch with deep layers of organic matter, especially in winter. After flowering in late spring, the spent flowers should be cut back which will promote rebloom later in the season. Eliminating plant stress created by improper cultural techniques can prevent potential disease problems, such as rust, leaf spot, root rot, and Fusarium wilt. Propagation Dianthus gratianopolitanus cultivars are propagated by tip and heel cuttings or division before or immediately after flowering. Dianthus species are propagated from seed in late winter to early spring. Home gardeners can also propagate selected cheddar pinks by layering. Visit www.perennialplant.org to learn more about the Perennial Plant Association. If you are interested in more information about perennials, Yardiac.com offers Andre Viettes Perennial Handbook. Look for more gardening guides, in the future. Also, don't miss out on our great selection of plant care products.